Gunpla Status 1/6
Entry posted by Janus
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Yep, you read that correct. I've completed my first Gunpla model, the GAT-X131 Calamity Gundam piloted by Orga Sabnak. And as this what I like to refer to as a "Testbed" model, I've compiled a list of all the things done correctly and incorrectly. One of them is very short, the other very long. Take a guess which?
GAT-X131 CALAMITY GUNDAM
Code name: Calamity Gundam
Unit type: prototype artillery mobile suit
Manufacturer: Earth Alliance (Atlantic Federation)
Operator: Earth Alliance (Atlantic Federation)
First deployment: 15 June C.E. 71
Accommodation: pilot only, in standard cockpit in torso
Dimensions: head height 18.26 meters
Weight: max gross weight 81.48 metric tons
Construction: unknown
Powerplant: ultracompact energy battery, power output rating unknown
Equipment and design features: sensors, range unknown; Trans-Phase (TP) armor
Fixed armaments: 2 x "Schlag" 125mm high-energy long-range beam cannon, mounted on backpack over shoulders; "Scylla" 580mm multi-phase energy cannon, mounted on chest, "Kaefer Zwei" 115mm dual ram cannon, mounted on shield connected to left arm
Optional hand armaments: "Todesblock" 337mm plasma-sabot bazooka
Things done correctly
-Model assembled (This one's iffy, but I'll let it stay)
Things done incorrectly
-Model not prebuilt
-Model not sanded
-Model not puttied
-Model not scribed
-Model not washed
-Model not primed
-model not painted with proper paints
-Paints not diluted properly
-model not glued anywhere
-incorrect paintbrushes used
-Attempted gold paint without any prior knowledge*
-Model sealed incorrectly
-Model not finished
-Pieces detailed incorrectly
-wrong type of tape
-wrong type of glue
-Paint work sloppy in several areas
-Detail work sloppy in several areas
-Paints not mixed properly
Just plain screwups
-One paint changed colour midway through
-Two paints were diluted too heavily, causing them to weep
-several pieces were melted in terpentine (Not severely)
-One paintbrush snapped
-Several pieces were stained
-Two pieces broke (And were summarily repaired)
So as we can see, it has been one heck of a learning experience (That and the Gunpla seminars/diorama's I've been working on) So what does this mean for future projects? Well, first off, your reward for looking through all of that is...
Calamity!
Orga wanted to show off his new (and subpar) toy, so here we go.
The GAT-X131 Deactivated. Front
Close in on the primary optical sensors (And awful black finelining work)
With the Todesblock" 337mm plasma-sabot bazooka
Angled shot (The cameraman was getting nervous)
Close in on thrusters and "Schlag" cannons.
For those of you unsure of what it would look like unpainted, here you go.
(Pic courtesy of Dalong.net)
You'd think this entry would end here, but nope. I'm not done yet. As the title said, my completion rate is 1/6, that means I've got five other Gundams to go through. Let's check our order of completion, shall we?
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YMF-X000A DREADNOUGHT GUNDAM (It's so totally Dreadnaught, just ignore the engrish and move on)
Code name: Dreadnought Gundam (aka X Astray)
Unit type: experimental DRAGOON use mobile suit
Manufacturer(s): ZAFT (mobile suit); Junk Guild (DRAGOON pack)
Operator: Junk Guild
First deployment: C.E. 71
Accommodation: pilot only, in standard cockpit in torso
Dimensions: overall height 18.21 meters
Weight: 67.50 metric tons (without DRAGOON system)
Construction: unknown
Powerplant: ultracompact nuclear fission reactor, power output rating unknown
Equipment and design features: sensors, range unknown; Phase Shift (PS) armor; Neutron Jammer Canceler
Fixed armaments: 4 x MMI-GAU2 "Picus" 76mm CIWS, fire-linked, mounted in head; MA-MV04 composite armed shield system, features beam claw, mounted on left arm
Optional hand armaments: MA-M22Y beam rifle
Remote weapons: DRAGOON (Disconnected Rapid Armament Group Overlook Operation Network) system, stored on backpack (mounts 4 units, total of 9 GDU-X7 beam guns); 2 x XM1 "Pristis" beam reamer, mounted on hip armor, can be guided on wires or wirelessly
Current Status
-Prebuilt
-Upper body entirely sanded, some lower body. Sanding in progress
-Some parts primed
-Some parts painted (First coat plus some detailing)
Overall progress: 34% complete
This one is the second Gundam model I started work on (and the third one purchased), and the one that I took down to the modelling seminar. All the painting was done by people not me, and was done utilizing the (Ever-so-awesome) drybrushing technique.
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GAT-X252 FORBIDDEN GUNDAM
Code name: Forbidden Gundam
Unit type: prototype close combat mobile suit
Manufacturer: Earth Alliance (Atlantic Federation)
Operator: Earth Alliance (Atlantic Federation)
First deployment: 15 June C.E. 71
Accommodation: pilot only, in standard cockpit in torso
Dimensions: head height 17.47 meters
Weight: max gross weight 85.33 metric tons
Construction: unknown
Powerplant: ultracompact energy battery, power output rating unknown
Equipment and design features: sensors, range unknown; Trans-Phase (TP) armor; "Geschmeidig Panzer" energy deflection armor
Fixed armaments: 2 x "Igelstellung" 75mm multi-barrel CIWS, fire-linked, mounted in head; 2 x "Armfeuer'" 115mm machine gun, mounted on forearms; 2 x "Eckzahn" 88mm railgun, mounted on backpack, operable only in close combat mode; "Hresvelgr" plasma induction cannon, mounted on backpack, operable only in close combat mode
Optional hand armaments: "Nidhoggr" heavy scythe
Current Status
-Prebuilt
Overall progress: 5% complete
The fourth Gundam I picked up. While I was never fond of the GAT-X370 Raider Gundam, I always did like the Forbidden, plus the pilot, Shani was always the coolest of the Biological CPU's. Although it's a cool one I'm still willing to take a few chances with it.
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YFX-200 CGUE TYPE DEEP ARMS
Unit type: experimental mobile suit
Manufacturer: ZAFT (Zodiac Alliance of Freedom Treaty)
Operator: ZAFT
First deployment: C.E. 71
Accommodation: pilot only, in standard cockpit in torso
Dimensions: head height 21.55 meters
Weight: max gross weight 81.83 metric tons
Construction: unknown
Powerplant: ultracompact energy battery, power output rating unknown
Equipment and design features: sensors, range unknown
Fixed armaments: 2 x JDP8-MSY0270 directed thermal energy cannon, mounted on shoulders; NOL-Y941 heavy laser sword, stored on left hip, hand-carried in use
Current status
-Prebuilt
Overall progress: 5% complete
This is actually the first Gunpla model I got this year (along with Calamity, but I liked this more) but I've been holding off on working on it, because it's just so cool looking that to make a mistake would be...well, heresy. I've been considering doing some custom paint apps on it, but I'm not sure. I do know that I'll be making a custom mono-eye.
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GAT-X105E STRIKE NOIR
Unit type: prototype mobile suit
Overall height: 17.72 meters
Weight: 90.5 metric tons
Equipment: Variable Phase Shift (VPS), enhanced power unit
Armament: M2M5 "Todesschrecken" 12.5mm automatic CIWS x 2, M8F-SB1 "Shorty" beam rifle x 2, EQS1358 rocket anchor x 5, AQM/E-X09S Noir Striker (mounts MR-Q10 "Fragarach" 3 beam blade x 2, MAU-M3E42 linked linear gun x 2, EQS1358T rocket anchor x 1)
Optional armament: 57mm high-energy beam rifle w/175mm grenade launcher x 2
Pilot: Sven Cal Bayang
Current status
-Prebuilt
-all extra pieces trimmed
Overall progress: 5.1%
The Strike Noir is without a doubt one of the coolest Gundam models, so I when I saw it at Anime Evolution for $25 there was no way I could resist picking it up. This is going to be one of my more touched up models, and I may even experiment with some airbrush on it.
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ZGMF-X42S DESTINY GUNDAM
Code name: Destiny Gundam
Unit type: prototype assault mobile suit
Manufacturer: ZAFT (Zodiac Alliance of Freedom Treaty)
Operator: ZAFT
First deployment: C.E. 74
Accommodation: pilot only, in standard cockpit in torso
Dimensions: overall height 18.08 meters
Weight: max gross weight 79.44 metric tons
Construction: unknown
Powerplant: ultracompact hyper deuterion nuclear reactor, power output rating unknown
Equipment and design features: sensors, range unknown; Variable Phase Shift (VPS) armor; Neutron Jammer Canceler; wings of light
Fixed armaments: 2 x MMI-GAU26 17.5mm CIWS, fire-linked, mounted in head; 2 x MX2351 "Solidus Fulgor" beam shield generator, mounted on wrists; 2 x RQM60F "Flash-Edge 2" beam boomerang, mounted on shoulders, hand-carried in use; MMI-714 "Arondight" anti-ship sword, stored in right wing, hand-carried in use; M2000GX high-energy long-range beam cannon; stored in left wing, hand-carried in use; 2 x MMI-X340 "Palma Fiocina" palm beam cannon, mounted on palms; shield, mounted on left arm
Optional hand armaments: MA-BAR73/S high-energy beam rifle, power rating unknown
Current status
-Prebuilt
-All extra pieces trimmed
Overall progress: 4%
Aiming the high energy beam cannon
Now the Destiny is without a doubt my favourite Gundam ever. It beats out everything in my eyes. This is partially due to two things. One. Wings. Two. The face. Neither of these can be seen clearly on the model, so I took the liberty of getting some images. As can be seen, this will be my final model (for now) and the one that I'm hopefully going to do the best on.
WINGS
(Yes, that is my model, and yes, those are included. They're translucent plastic with sparkles encased in them)
Face
(I've got nothing much to say here, I just adore that face)
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And so completes my current status on Gunpla models, now that the guys have given me some Tamiya glue, and some sandpaper plus a mask, I can keep working. Oh, and for all of you out there who don't know the process, here you go.
Step 1: Prebuild - The model must be assembled, however simply building it as per the instructions will lead to difficulty. To begin with, once every piece is removed from its sprue, use an X-acto knife to remove any excess plastic (Be sure to cut away from yourself and not to apply too much pressure) always remeber to wear safety goggles. Now what you want to do here is take a pair of wire-clippers and begin to cut all of the pegs to about half-length, if you can smoothly remove a piece without any issues, you've prebuilt it correctly. However be sure not to cut any clips that go into any PVC or Polycap pieces, that can cause problems. Any pieces of the same colour should be glued using Tamiya brand glue, the exception here is if they clip onto another piece (IE: Shoulder pieces should not be glued if they are blue and the arm is white)
Step 2: Sanding - In order for the paint to stick nicely, and in order for those icky seam lines to go away, the model needs to be sanded. Begin with a 400 grit piece of sandpaper and use very rapid, short strokes across the surface until there is no more 'gleam' just a dull surface. On parts with seam lines (IE: Body, arms) Once you've completed your sanding you should not be able to feel the seam lines if you brush your fingernail across it, if you can, attempt to sand some more. After going over it with the 400, take out a piece of 600 grit sandpaper and lightly go over it once, just to polish it nice and neat and then move onto Step 3. REMEMBER TO WEAR A PARTICLE MASK. YOU DO NOT WANT THIS STUFF IN YOUR LUNGS
Step 3: Puttying - This is an optional step depending on how good you are, it's primarily done if you have an uneven seam line (IE: You can grab it with your fingernail) or if you used too much pressure in the prebuild and cut too deep into the piece. Now, using a bit of putty (Once again, I use Tamiya brand) lightly rub it over the area, try to make sure it doesn't sink into any panel lines and try to not use too much, it takes roughly half-an-hour to dry so if you use too much, you're looking at even more time. Once it's dry take a piece of 400 grit sandpaper and grind away until the putty is primarily in the cracks only, once again run over it with your fingernail, if you can catch it, lather, rinse, and repeat. If not, it's time for scribing.
Step 4: Scribing - In order to make sure that the paint application sticks nice and neat you're going to want to scribe. In order to this you need to find any panel lines, or any recessed areas. Any undefined areas (Such as rounded off areas) you will need to 'open' up by lightly tracing over them with an X-acto knife. Next take a rounded hook (Like something out of a dentists office) and lightly scratch away tiny bits of the plastic as you go along, once it seems deep enough, take a more angled hook and continue to scratch. You're looking for depth here, the deeper the lines, the better you're doing. Just try not to go too deep (As it can damage the model). Any panel lines or clearly defined recessed areas just use the two hooks, there's no need to use the knife.
As for rounded areas, here's a diagram of a Ginn model (The same type I've been working on for the diorama) to show what I mean.
All of the circled red areas are areas that would require scribing that might not seem as obvious. However all of the other recessed areas and panel lines would still require standard scribing work.
Step 5: Washing - Take all of the pieces you have done and dump them into a large bucket of room temperature water, mix in a tiny bit of soap and just lightly rub the pieces. This is a very short stage.
Step 6: Priming - Take a piece of the sprue and cut it with the wire cutters, next using a brand of masking tape (with low stick) or a piece of stickytac attach the piece to the sprue. Now take a spray-on coat of grey primer and shake it vigorously. Holding the sprue with the piece attached about arms-length away from you, spray one direction, cut the spray, and then spray back. So something like
Spray-->(Piece) *Stop spray*
*Stop Spray*(Piece)<--Spray
Until the entire piece is lightly coated in grey. If there are any bubbles, or blurring of lines then you have sprayed too heavily, wipe it off and start again. Make sure you Prime OUTSIDE, not inside
Once the piece is completely primed tape the sprue to the model box and continue with the other pieces.
Step 7: Painting - I now use Tamiya brand Paint (the best stuff to use) NEVER. EVER. EVER use any Testors paint on a Gundam model (That's what I used to paint the Calamity) It's a pain, has low stick, and just doesn't work well, period. With Tamiya use about three different containers. The original paint, one with Windex (The best Tamiya paint thinner ever) and one with half and half. You will paint from the half-and-half. Paint on a light coat and then wait fifteen minutes for it to dry, continue for about 5-7 coats. This is with standard brush.
Step 7.1: Painting via drybrush - This requires no thinner whatsoever, however it will also prevent any shading techniques from being used. Dip your brush in the unthinned paint very lightly, and rub off any excess, using only the little bit of paint left on the brush paint lightly over the model pieces. This cuts the time down an insane amount, but it's very, very difficult to pull off correctly. With one coat of drybrush you put on the 7 coats of standard brush.
Step 8: Pre-finishing - In order to protect your model before you do any lining, you want to finish, or 'seal' it. Take a bottle of Future Floor Wax (Found in almost any shopping mall) dip a Q-tip into it and just lightly rub it on piece by piece then let it dry
Step 9: Lining - Now you will need to thin your paint. Doing about a three-quarter thin (Until the stuff is near-liquid), now take your thin brush and lightly run over any of the reccessed areas and panel lines, it'll just sink right in and make some good lookin' panels. This is partially why you were scribing in the first place.
Step 10: Finishing - Your model is almost complete, but you want to both protect the paintjob, and give it a nice shiny look to it. Just like above, take a bottle of Future Floor Wax, dip in that Q-tip and lightly coat each piece then let it dry. This will keep the paint and the lines from chipping. Take special care with the eyes (Put on multiple coats, it makes it very, very shiny)
Step 11: Posing - Assemble your finished model and put it in a nice pose, congratulations, you're finished.
Two things of note. One, this was made with 1/144 HG models in mind, however it will work for everything. Second, there are far more detailed painting tutorials out there, I will be putting one together eventually, but right now I'm focusing mainly on prebuild/sand/scribe/wash/prime.
Feel free to ask any questions about my models, or the brief explanation of the steps.
*Gold is the second hardest paint to put on, superceded only by white.
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