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Lewa Mata Revisited


Bricknave

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Everyone and their Turaga has rebuilt at least one of the original six at some point in their lives.

 

I present to you my rebuild of 2001 Lewa, inspired by the first wave of 2015:

 

16030095849_97b69ba990.jpg

 

The first wave of 2015 has reconciled functionality with pose-ability. I wanted to see if I could import this method to a 2001 model.

 

There were several variations during the design phase, but this is what I settled on:

 

16214324481_8671125384.jpg

 

If only ... If only .. They had solved the problem of the Falling Arm in 2001. Or in 2003, when they had access to axle-pins with friction. Oh well, the past is the past. This is 2015.

 

15596348233_32f9af5481.jpg

 

In addition to solving the problem of the Falling Arm, I added some extra pose-ability. He is now more like the CGI Lewa on advertisements.

 

I almost used the asymmetrical arms, but they were too asymmetrical for my tastes.

 

His left arm looked lonely, so I gave him a little shield. It isn't as effective as Kopaka's, but it is much lighter and easier to swing on vines with.

 

I'm happy to read your thoughts / suggestions / methods of solving the problem of the Falling Arm. :)

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what is the deal with his hips?

I think they're attached to something like a lightsaber blade piece. Maybe one of those flex tubes cut to 5x length.

 

Anyway, looks like a good modification to the figure. I've been contemplating ways to give the Mata some friction, as well, and it looks like you beat me to it. :P

~Your friendly, neighborhood Shadow

 

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what is the deal with his hips?

 

 

 

what is the deal with his hips?

I think they're attached to something like a lightsaber blade piece. Maybe one of those flex tubes cut to 5x length.

 

Anyway, looks like a good modification to the figure. I've been contemplating ways to give the Mata some friction, as well, and it looks like you beat me to it. :P

 

 

Correctomundo, it's a lightsaber blade / bar 4x! Getting it in made a loud noise, just so you know.

 

Thanks! I'm sure someone, somewhere, has beat me to adding friction. ;)

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Huh, pretty cool. Doesn't look like much at first glance but I really respect the additional points of articulation you subtly added. Barely changes the sets aesthetics... but completely changes the functionality.

 

-NotS

Agreed. I kind of wish the hands were Dark Green (Mata Green/Classic Green), but other than that, this is a nice modification! There's actually an easier way to add friction to the back gear, though you lose the head articulation:

 

  1. Take the axle that sticks all the way through the neck and replace it with a 4-length axle. This allows the control gear to still spin the inner gears, but now the axle doesn't stick into the neck.
  2. Stick a friction half-pin/half-axle into the now-open hole in the neck.
  3. Stick a gear on it. This will add friction to both the one-arm and two-arm gear systems. If you want head articulation, however, you can't use this method.

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It's being held together by imagination. :P

 

 

Nice job, though. Something about it doesn't look right, but it's better than I can do.

 

Thanks!

 

Huh, pretty cool. Doesn't look like much at first glance but I really respect the additional points of articulation you subtly added. Barely changes the sets aesthetics... but completely changes the functionality.

 

-NotS

 

Thanks! I was going for functionality.

 

 

Huh, pretty cool. Doesn't look like much at first glance but I really respect the additional points of articulation you subtly added. Barely changes the sets aesthetics... but completely changes the functionality.

 

-NotS

Agreed. I kind of wish the hands were Dark Green (Mata Green/Classic Green), but other than that, this is a nice modification! There's actually an easier way to add friction to the back gear, though you lose the head articulation:

 

  1. Take the axle that sticks all the way through the neck and replace it with a 4-length axle. This allows the control gear to still spin the inner gears, but now the axle doesn't stick into the neck.
  2. Stick a friction half-pin/half-axle into the now-open hole in the neck.
  3. Stick a gear on it. This will add friction to both the one-arm and two-arm gear systems. If you want head articulation, however, you can't use this method.

 

 

Thanks! I thought the same thing after taking pictures. I have 2 shoulder/hip/"hand" ball sockets in normal green, but I felt like using the lime green hand-hands instead. Unfortunately I don't have them in normal green.

 

I'll have to try that method out for fun sometime!

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