FrozenPancake_ Posted February 20, 2016 Share Posted February 20, 2016 Hel-lo BZPower! (I always wanted to loud-shout that.) So, after acquiring a Rahkshi, I realized, "Man, is this function floppy!" Therefore, I took it upon myself to find a way to fix it. Here's how to fix it up: Separate the upper and lower halves of the torso assembly. See that tan pin attached to one half? Remove it, and replace it with its blue, friction-adding cousin. Reassemble your Rahkshi. Enjoy having a non-floppy Rahkshi! I hope this helps those of you who have a Rahkshi. However, if this fix is common knowledge, I'm okay with it if it gets taken down. 3 Quote A big thank you to Toucan Sam for the Okotian name. [topic=][/topic] [ON HIATUS] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toa of Ice - 1987 Posted February 21, 2016 Share Posted February 21, 2016 Technically that solution is mostly uncommon. However when i had them i remember that black peg/pin friction pieces from bohrok va found in older sets pre 2003 usually had better stiffness than blue ones. (However tan ones were most likely used so kids could use the rahkshi to swing them wildly at fast speeds) 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lyichir Posted February 21, 2016 Share Posted February 21, 2016 Technically that solution is mostly uncommon. However when i had them i remember that black peg/pin friction pieces from bohrok va found in older sets pre 2003 usually had better stiffness than blue ones. (However tan ones were most likely used so kids could use the rahkshi to swing them wildly at fast speeds) As far as I can tell, black and blue friction pin-axles are exactly the same in terms of the friction they provide. The same applies to tan and light gray ones. The change in color served only to differentiate them better from regular gray pins and black friction pins. Incidentally, regular friction pins DO come in multiple varieties, with older ones having more friction and being harder to attach and separate. It's a subtle difference and one that can be hard to tell at a glance, but the earliest friction pins were thicker and more rigid than they are today. I'm not actually sure exactly when the thickness was changed but I'm pretty sure it was pre-Bionicle. Quote Formerly Lyichir: Rachira of Influence Aanchir's and Meiko's brother Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toa of Ice - 1987 Posted February 22, 2016 Share Posted February 22, 2016 (edited) Technically that solution is mostly uncommon. However when i had them i remember that black peg/pin friction pieces from bohrok va found in older sets pre 2003 usually had better stiffness than blue ones. (However tan ones were most likely used so kids could use the rahkshi to swing them wildly at fast speeds) As far as I can tell, black and blue friction pin-axles are exactly the same in terms of the friction they provide. The same applies to tan and light gray ones. The change in color served only to differentiate them better from regular gray pins and black friction pins.Incidentally, regular friction pins DO come in multiple varieties, with older ones having more friction and being harder to attach and separate. It's a subtle difference and one that can be hard to tell at a glance, but the earliest friction pins were thicker and more rigid than they are today. I'm not actually sure exactly when the thickness was changed but I'm pretty sure it was pre-Bionicle.I do remember one instance that black regular pegs became different, it was when the ill fated Spybotics line was launched. All of them used a laser gun mounted on them and required a led cable plugged in through a black peg assembly on one end. I don't remember what year that line came out but i had the green one Technojaw Edited February 22, 2016 by necross hordika Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aldero Posted February 22, 2016 Share Posted February 22, 2016 I'll apply this to my Vahki as well. Thanks. 2 Quote < -< =<o>= >- > Ha! I tricked you into reading my signature! < -< =<o>= >- > Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FrozenPancake_ Posted February 22, 2016 Author Share Posted February 22, 2016 I'll apply this to my Vahki as well. Thanks. No problem! I'm glad that it helped you! Nice profile pic, BTW. XD Quote A big thank you to Toucan Sam for the Okotian name. [topic=][/topic] [ON HIATUS] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SPIRIT Posted February 22, 2016 Share Posted February 22, 2016 I'll have to give that a shot someday. I mean, it's not like there's exactly a shortage of blue friction pins... I thought this topic was going in a different direction, since some of my Rahkshi have loose joints. My solution to that was to just keep swapping around the joint pieces until the poor guy can stand up without flopping over. 1 Quote ~ The Jazziest JtO Spoof ~ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FrozenPancake_ Posted February 22, 2016 Author Share Posted February 22, 2016 I'll have to give that a shot someday. I mean, it's not like there's exactly a shortage of blue friction pins... I thought this topic was going in a different direction, since some of my Rahkshi have loose joints. My solution to that was to just keep swapping around the joint pieces until the poor guy can stand up without flopping over.Oh Mata Nui! SPIRIT replied to one of my posts! Seriously. It's an honor. I love your comedies. Anyway, back on topic: I don't personally have loose joints on mine. Could you tell me where the problem areas on yours are, for future reference? P.S.: You should also try giving your Rahkshi minifig-scale hats. My Lerahk is currently wearing a pirate hat. Quote A big thank you to Toucan Sam for the Okotian name. [topic=][/topic] [ON HIATUS] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SPIRIT Posted February 22, 2016 Share Posted February 22, 2016 I don't personally have loose joints on mine. Could you tell me where the problem areas on yours are, for future reference? Oh it's not really location-based, I just found that the plastic they made the Rahkshi joints out of led to some of the ball-and-socket joints being loose occasionally. Then again, some of my other Rahkshi had perfectly functional joints, so I think it's all luck of the draw. 2 Quote ~ The Jazziest JtO Spoof ~ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lyichir Posted February 23, 2016 Share Posted February 23, 2016 I don't personally have loose joints on mine. Could you tell me where the problem areas on yours are, for future reference?Oh it's not really location-based, I just found that the plastic they made the Rahkshi joints out of led to some of the ball-and-socket joints being loose occasionally. Then again, some of my other Rahkshi had perfectly functional joints, so I think it's all luck of the draw. The plastic used for the joints on the Rahkshi wasn't any different from the plastic used for the joints on other sets. I think the most probable factors are just age and use—joints that old are going to lose friction over time, especially if they've been played with a lot over the years or have been supporting the weight of the set all that time. Quote Formerly Lyichir: Rachira of Influence Aanchir's and Meiko's brother Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
randomreviewerbros Posted February 23, 2016 Share Posted February 23, 2016 I've thought of doing this before but just realised that I don't play with them so no point for me to do this, it is a good idea tho, and maybe for display I could do it so that they aren't flopping around, would work great for the Vahki and 2003 Matoran as well, those 03 Matoran flop around like its nobodies business. 1 Quote Go check out our Youtube channel! We review BIONICLE and other LEGO related items! https://www.youtube.com/user/RandomReviewerBros Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.