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Can This Happen To Socket Joints?


TOAOFCOMEDY

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I need to replace some pieces, and, due to the number of pieces I need to have replaced, it might sound strange if I call up LEGO and tell them I need like 19 pieces replaced as opposed to 15. So, I was wondering if it was necessary to replace these four socket joint pieces from Kiina. The reason I might need them replaced is because they are cracked in not just one of the archways, but both of them. Here's a picture I took of it:http://www.brickshel...nt/img_1006.jpgAnyway, the reason I made this topic is because I wanted to know if this had ever happened to anyone else or if anyone has heard of it. Anyone know?

Edited by TOAOFCOMEDY
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I've had those joints crack in all kinds of ways. It's nothing unusual.It looks to me like the piece still works fine, but how does it feel to you? Is the connection too loose? Does come off too easily? If not, then I don't think you need to replace it.From my experience, cracks in the center are less damaging than side cracks, so chances are it won't get any worse. Still, you can order replacements if you feel the need to.

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This haa happened to me quite alot but i noticed that out of all the pieces i had more lime-green piece break.such as the pieces from ehlek and Hahli Mahri. but no you are not the only one.On a similar note does anyone know why this happens like specifically why the pieces are breaking more easy?I heard that lego had started using a new form plastic and that it was being used starting around 2007 which might explain why those pieces started to break/crack.I don't know i that is true but it's just what i have heard from someone.

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This haa happened to me quite alot but i noticed that out of all the pieces i had more lime-green piece break.such as the pieces from ehlek and Hahli Mahri. but no you are not the only one.On a similar note does anyone know why this happens like specifically why the pieces are breaking more easy?I heard that lego had started using a new form plastic and that it was being used starting around 2007 which might explain why those pieces started to break/crack.I don't know i that is true but it's just what i have heard from someone.

No, TLG's plastic didn't change significantly in 2007. Now, the problems with lime green joints from 2007 were attributed by TLG to a batch of parts that hadn't cooled properly, making them brittle. I don't know how much truth there is in this or whether it accounts for other easily-broken joint pieces from 2007 onward. There was definitely a structural factor involved in the brittleness of the 2008-2010 style of ball cup, hence why Hero Factory introduced a new style in 2011 that is much sturdier. One piece of good news for BIONICLE fans is that the Shadow Matoran foot, which is still being used in Hero Factory sets, has been redesigned with the 2011 style of ball cup. The redesigned version has not yet appeared in any sets, though-- we simply have confirmation from a part engineer that the old style will eventually be replaced. Hopefully the same will be true in the case of other BIONICLE parts that continue to appear in sets like the Glatorian head. Edited by Aanchir: Rachira of Time
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This happens always. The only things that are breaking-proof are the new HF pieces

Technically the Ben 10 sets also had sturdier parts. My only experience with them is from where the parts have appeared in Hero Factory, but I'd reckon they might be even sturdier than the Hero Factory limbs.

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Technically the Ben 10 sets also had sturdier parts. My only experience with them is from where the parts have appeared in Hero Factory, but I'd reckon they might be even sturdier than the Hero Factory limbs.

The Hero Factory and Ben 10 sockets are actually the same (Though Ben 10 used them first, while HF 1.0 stuck to the late Bionicle sockets). The only significant difference is that all Ben 10 parts were fairly specialized compared to Hero Factory parts, and a few had sockets made of rubber (the hands in particular), which if I recall were slightly weaker than the plastic limbs.The limb pieces from Ben 10 looked kind of weak to me, especially around the ball joints. They were about as thick as the old Bionicle limbs, but with much wider gaps for the new sockets. Hero Factory's limbs are a bit thicker in construction.I've never heard of problems with those pieces though, so I assume they were sturdy enough.

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This has happened to some of my 2008 and on Bionicle sockets. It's not a big deal, as long as you just handle it a little more carefully.However, it hasn't happened with any of my 2.0 HF parts. I don't even think they are susceptible to cracking like that.

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In my experience, a hairline crack like that won't ruin the piece, but it's the beginning of the end. Not only will the joint connection be significantly looser, but future use could snap the whole socket tip off, rendering it completely useless. From what I can tell, the pieces crack most when you're trying to take them off; I'm now super careful when taking apart joints, and even then I still fracture them. As for replacements, I don't bother with official Lego replacements anymore, and just go through Bricklink and buy what I need there. :music:

Edited by xccj
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Yes, Ben 10 also has good, firm parts, but not as much as the new HF 2.0 and on (no, it's not a commerical for HF :P)

This has happened to some of my 2008 and on Bionicle sockets. It's not a big deal, as long as you just handle it a little more carefully.However, it hasn't happened with any of my 2.0 HF parts. I don't even think they are susceptible to cracking like that.

As you said, it's impossible. They're of another quality of plastic.

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Technically the Ben 10 sets also had sturdier parts. My only experience with them is from where the parts have appeared in Hero Factory, but I'd reckon they might be even sturdier than the Hero Factory limbs.

The Hero Factory and Ben 10 sockets are actually the same (Though Ben 10 used them first, while HF 1.0 stuck to the late Bionicle sockets). The only significant difference is that all Ben 10 parts were fairly specialized compared to Hero Factory parts, and a few had sockets made of rubber (the hands in particular), which if I recall were slightly weaker than the plastic limbs.The limb pieces from Ben 10 looked kind of weak to me, especially around the ball joints. They were about as thick as the old Bionicle limbs, but with much wider gaps for the new sockets. Hero Factory's limbs are a bit thicker in construction.I've never heard of problems with those pieces though, so I assume they were sturdy enough.
Actually, they're not the same. The hole through the socket in Ben 10 parts is actually even smaller than that in Hero Factory parts: it can connect to 3.2mm bars (i.e. anything a minifig hand can grip, like the tube piece that debuted in the Toa Mahri). The hole through Hero Factory sockets is too narrow to connect a technic pin like you could with BIONICLE joints, but too wide to securely hold a 3.2mm bar. Mind, this doesn't make the Ben 10 joints superior: from my experience, the Hero Factory joints have a much firmer connection than the Ben 10 joints from my experience.

Yes, Ben 10 also has good, firm parts, but not as much as the new HF 2.0 and on (no, it's not a commerical for HF :P)

This has happened to some of my 2008 and on Bionicle sockets. It's not a big deal, as long as you just handle it a little more carefully.However, it hasn't happened with any of my 2.0 HF parts. I don't even think they are susceptible to cracking like that.

As you said, it's impossible. They're of another quality of plastic.
Actually, the Hero Factory parts use the exact same plastic as BIONICLE joints did. The difference is in the part design, not the material.

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Technically the Ben 10 sets also had sturdier parts. My only experience with them is from where the parts have appeared in Hero Factory, but I'd reckon they might be even sturdier than the Hero Factory limbs.

The Hero Factory and Ben 10 sockets are actually the same (Though Ben 10 used them first, while HF 1.0 stuck to the late Bionicle sockets). The only significant difference is that all Ben 10 parts were fairly specialized compared to Hero Factory parts, and a few had sockets made of rubber (the hands in particular), which if I recall were slightly weaker than the plastic limbs.The limb pieces from Ben 10 looked kind of weak to me, especially around the ball joints. They were about as thick as the old Bionicle limbs, but with much wider gaps for the new sockets. Hero Factory's limbs are a bit thicker in construction.I've never heard of problems with those pieces though, so I assume they were sturdy enough.
Actually, they're not the same. The hole through the socket in Ben 10 parts is actually even smaller than that in Hero Factory parts: it can connect to 3.2mm bars (i.e. anything a minifig hand can grip, like the tube piece that debuted in the Toa Mahri). The hole through Hero Factory sockets is too narrow to connect a technic pin like you could with BIONICLE joints, but too wide to securely hold a 3.2mm bar. Mind, this doesn't make the Ben 10 joints superior: from my experience, the Hero Factory joints have a much firmer connection than the Ben 10 joints from my experience.

Yes, Ben 10 also has good, firm parts, but not as much as the new HF 2.0 and on (no, it's not a commerical for HF :P)

This has happened to some of my 2008 and on Bionicle sockets. It's not a big deal, as long as you just handle it a little more carefully.However, it hasn't happened with any of my 2.0 HF parts. I don't even think they are susceptible to cracking like that.

As you said, it's impossible. They're of another quality of plastic.
Actually, the Hero Factory parts use the exact same plastic as BIONICLE joints did. The difference is in the part design, not the material.
Yeah they're bad in that part, that you cant attach anything, but they're more firm, and its a sacrifce worth it!

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That's frustratingly common. I can never stand it when this happens, usually because it makes joints so darn loose they can barely pose right, and it just looks terrible. Fortunately, it's not TOO widespread, yet it always seems to happen to my favourite sets.

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Think TLC switched to a different plastic company about 2007-ish and that's why the lime green plastic pieces are all rubbish. Some of those, I've found cracked right out of the canister. I normally use broken pieces for zombie MOC's and the like. If a certain type of piece cracks a lot, y'might want to order a ton of extra pieces instead of just the ones you need. Would save time if the piece cracks later.

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Think TLC switched to a different plastic company about 2007-ish and that's why the lime green plastic pieces are all rubbish. Some of those, I've found cracked right out of the canister. I normally use broken pieces for zombie MOC's and the like. If a certain type of piece cracks a lot, y'might want to order a ton of extra pieces instead of just the ones you need. Would save time if the piece cracks later.

No, TLG's plastic supplier has been the same for decades, as far as I'm aware. I believe the brittle pieces in 2007 and onward were, as LEGO claims, a production problem and not a materials problem, though it may have been more widespread than TLG acknowledged at the time.
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This happens always. The only things that are breaking-proof are the new HF pieces

Half-right. New HF parts, or real old joins back from '03 or earlier. At least the black ones. I've never had the problem with Mata or Bohrok parts. As for replacing your pieces, probably best not to call up Lego Customer Services. In any case, they'd probably charge you an arm and a leg for parts from '09. Best to try Bricklink.

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This happens always. The only things that are breaking-proof are the new HF pieces

Half-right. New HF parts, or real old joins back from '03 or earlier. At least the black ones. I've never had the problem with Mata or Bohrok parts. As for replacing your pieces, probably best not to call up Lego Customer Services. In any case, they'd probably charge you an arm and a leg for parts from '09. Best to try Bricklink.
Actually, I have heaps of broken socket pieces from 2001 to 2005 sets, especially black ones. A good portion of them is cracked at the axle connection and not at the socket joint, though.I have many cracked joints like that, although my experience is that most are the redesigned ones from 2008. Those from the years before are completely useless after a crack like that, though, so I don´t use them anymore while I still use a few cracked joints from 2008 onward.As far as the HF socket joints are concerned, not only is the design another but they use another kind of plastic as well. This plastic is actually not sturdier but softer which means that in case that there is too much stress inflicted on a joint it will simply fall off instead of breaking, as can be seen if a HF 2.0 falls to the ground. Making the plastic softer also means that attaching a socket to a ball joint inflicts far less stress on the socket joints (also due to the perforated ball joints), hence they are attached easier and without potentially damaging the piece.-Gata signoff.jpg

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This happens always. The only things that are breaking-proof are the new HF pieces

Half-right. New HF parts, or real old joins back from '03 or earlier. At least the black ones. I've never had the problem with Mata or Bohrok parts.As for replacing your pieces, probably best not to call up Lego Customer Services. In any case, they'd probably charge you an arm and a leg for parts from '09. Best to try Bricklink.
Actually, I have heaps of broken socket pieces from 2001 to 2005 sets, especially black ones. A good portion of them is cracked at the axle connection and not at the socket joint, though.I have many cracked joints like that, although my experience is that most are the redesigned ones from 2008. Those from the years before are completely useless after a crack like that, though, so I don´t use them anymore while I still use a few cracked joints from 2008 onward.As far as the HF socket joints are concerned, not only is the design another but they use another kind of plastic as well. This plastic is actually not sturdier but softer which means that in case that there is too much stress inflicted on a joint it will simply fall off instead of breaking, as can be seen if a HF 2.0 falls to the ground. Making the plastic softer also means that attaching a socket to a ball joint inflicts far less stress on the socket joints (also due to the perforated ball joints), hence they are attached easier and without potentially damaging the piece.-Gata signoff.jpg
Yeah, the old socket joints aren't exempt. Mind, they broke far less easily than those from 2008 onward. But they could still break from continual use.Technically, the plastic used in the HF joints was used for some joints in BIONICLE: specifically, the transparent joints in such sets as Jaller and Matoro Inika. Both use Polycarbonate. However, the old joints were still fragile even in this different plastic. The issue was more one of part geometries: The HF-style joints are thicker and, as you mentioned, the ball joints which go with them are perforated.

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Oh goodness. I remember these. The way I dealt with these was to snap them on from sort of a sideways angle, at a slight diagonal.Seeing as this one of yours is already broken, I give you this therapy:neutral-whyyyyy.pngWhat I've tried to do is buy a lot of Hero Factory parts, because those ball joints are much better, and I haven't experienced one breaking yet.

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  • 1 year later...

Have had similar experiences to what's been reported here so far, more or less since Bionicle's day-one. Though very recently, I've seen it most in the translucent Inika sockets, both single-socket/hand pieces and double-socket/arm and leg pieces. I bought a few at BrickLink the other day, and since they arrived, every single one of them has broken at the socket, just from connecting the ball. Righteous pain in the backside, one and all.

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