Photographing Lego Models Options

[Red Baron]

Alright, it's always been a little voice at the back of my head here, but I think it's time I really offered up some info on properly photographing LEGO. So first, let's ask WHY I decided to post this, what's wrong with your photography now?

So my first bit of advice before I give a long winded article: Step back, and turn off the flash.

Section 1.0: Setup and Lighting

First thing first, where are you taking your pictures? If it's in a basement, or near a glowing computer screen - pay particular attention. Look for a room in your house, with big windows that catch the sun at any given point in the day. This is were you'll be taking the pictures, and take them when the sun is going into the room.

Next, a Backdrop. One thing to avoid is a cluttered background, it distracts the eye from the model itself. So go get a piece of White Poster Board, Bristol Board, or at the very least a white bed sheet. Find a chair or something with a right angle (a table against a wall would also work), something with ambient lighting from your window - avoid having direct light from your window (i.e.: if you can see shadows of the slats that run through your window, move out of that patch of light) across your setup as this will result in some washed-out areas of the photograph as your camera compensates for the difference in lighting. So as I said, look for ambient lighting. Drape your backdrop along that right angle, making sure it's secure - it should curve down from the vertical surface onto the horizontal one, but make sure you have enough flat space to place things. Flat space: unless you are already placing the Backdrop on a hard flat surface, you may want to put one under the backdrop, so that your models will have a stable flat surface to rest.

Reflectors. What are those? Something I've really begun to like is using reflectors to strengthen the lighting on the model. What is a reflector? Something that will reflect light onto your model. However, mirrors may be a little too strong. Your best bet here is to find a nice large and sturdy white board. White cardboard is good. I myself am using the back of a canvas board. Set it up so that it's taking direct light from the windows and reflecting it upon your model, you'll find the ambient light around your model will increase. It may be a little hard to set this up, so do it if you can, but it is by no means mandatory.

Your setup is nearly done. I'll expand on the final pieces in the next section.

Section 2.0: The Camera

Most people worry if their camera is good enough to take high quality pictures, and let me say: it probably is, in the hands of a capable photographer. Anything with 3 megapixels or more of resolution is great. Remember, your camera probably has a cornucopia(lots) of settings hidden it it - so read through the instruction booklet, and more importantly: play around with it! You (or your parents) probably paid good money for it, so get the most out of it. Avoid webcams and cameraphones, in my own opinion I think they're only good for video chat and capturing evidence in a crime; they probably have a very small resolution, under that 3 megapixels said above and also don't have all the functions a real camera does.

Optical Zoom vs Digital Zoom. Do you know the difference? You camera manual will specify which your camera has, and it's value (eg: 5x, 12x). Optical Zoom is best, it uses the lens to zoom in on the subject and thus capture things closer up while keeping detail. Digital Zoom more or less crops the photo, it just enlarges the image you are already getting and thus 1 pixel at 1x/no zoom becomes at 3x zoom a solid block of colour 3 times larger. So avoid using it.

Focus range. Notice that very many photographs here are blurry, especially the close-ups. If this is happening to everyone, then it must be a common problem, what is it? You're probably getting too close to the model, and your camera cannot focus on it and usually ends up focusing on something in the background. To fix this, follow my very first advice: Step back. Cameras can only focus so close. If your camera has a Macro feature (shown as a small flower symbol) you can get closer. Always let the camera focus first and make sure you model is in focus before taking the picture! If you don't know how to let the camera focus before taking the picture, consult the manual.

Motion Blur. In dark environments, your camera can do one of two things to brighten an image. 1] it enlarges the aperture of the lens. What? Think of the camera as an eye, there is an iris and a pupil, the larger the pupil the more light is allowed in to the eye. Thus the larger the aperature, the more light is allowed in the camera. This results in a grainer picture and a smaller Depth of Field (area behind & infront of the subject that is in focus). 2] it will lengthen the shutter speed. This means that the camera will take longer to capture the photograph, and means that you have to stay very still or you'll end up with a blurry picture. You can combat this by making sure your setup has good lighting, thus allowing your camera to chose a faster shutter speed and smaller aperture. You can also steady the camera by purchasing a tripod, or resting the camera on a stack of books. Additionally, with either of the previous you can set the camera's timer to take the picture a number of seconds after you press the shutter, giving you time to get your hands off it - thus reducing the unavoidable human shake.

Flash. Flash is bad. It will really wash out colours and produce a hideous glare on your model. This is combated by increasing the natural lighting of your setup, as I have outlined above. So, make sure to turn your flash off! If your camera insists on using it, it means that you haven't got enough natural light, so fix that!

Take lots of pictures! Different angles, top, bottom, front, sides, back, close-ups(use zoom!), whatever! We'll never be able to fully understand the model as you do, so at least provide us with the best visual understanding possible.

Section 3.0: Post-Editing

By this I mean cropping, resizing, and even more depending on the software you are using. Not all of us have the luxury of owning Photoshop, but it isn't the only thing out there. Gimp, and Irfanview are free so consider your options.

Cropping. This is essentially the act of cutting off unwanted edges of a photograph. Imagine, if you will, cutting a rectangle in some construction paper smaller then the size of a photo, you then drag the paper with the rectangle missing over the photograph - move it around and such. Cropping works in the same way, you can chose a specific section of a photo and get rid of the rest. Note: Landscape oriented photos are easier on the eye, thus a viewer will probably like them better. If you have a lot of empty space in a photo this is probably a good idea; or if you want to concentrate the image on a specific part of the photo then this is suggested.

Resizing. Please, this is important. Most photos I see are huge! 1000x1000 pixels or more! The maximum you should aim for is 800x800, most of my own photos range from 600 to 800 in width. If you feel that you really want to capture the detail a big image captures, then crop them to one area! Several cropped photographs of specific areas of interest are better than one humongous one.

Format. Most of you are good, .jpg or .jpeg is the way to go. Avoid .gif's and .bmp's. .png's are great, but too big for this.

Section 4.0: Conclusion

So what does a good photograph amount to? It's much easier to look at, makes your model look better, and represents your hard worked details much better. Consider the following two photos:



Which would you rather click on to view the large image? Which looks better? Which do you like better?

I hope this guide will help someone. If you have any questions, or tips, please post them!

This post has been edited by Red Baron: Mar 9 2007, 05:59 PM

[Shine]

Funny, I was just thinking about a topic like this. Anywho, cameras always take the same size picture (in pixils) so what I do is open new photos in MS Paint and scale the image down by a certain percent (that I use for all photos) before cropping it, that way I can be sure my images are are never too big.

[SparkyDino: Toa ...]

That's really helpful! Thanks!!

[SAMBO10794]

Kinda helpful!
Thanks anyway!

[Than: Matoran of...]

This is an excellent guide that I think would benefit everyone. I've pinned it as it will make a great reference.

[Dudester]

Thats great advice! I'll definetly use it!

[Primis]

I knew I shouldn't have used my phone. >.<

[Time Agent]

Nice job on this, RB. I like the reflector idea; I'll have to try that sometime.

[Red Baron]

Thanks for the pinning Than! Now I'll have to go through and fix some grammar.

[Toast of Doom]

This is an excelent guide. I dare say that it's exactly what I was looking for. Question: does this approach work with solid black MOCs?

This post has been edited by Toast of Doom: Mar 13 2007, 10:25 PM

[Red Baron]

Solid black is a challenge. Two things to try here:

1] Get really good lighting and over expose
or
2] Use a dark coloured (grey or black preferably) backdrop, this will create more contrast between the dark tones, and not just between white and black.

[Machine758]

I'd suggest adding to it by saying to keep out of your shadow when photographing.

[Splinky]

Could I make a recommendation? Take your photograph in a reasonably dark room; if you have sunlight and the flash at the same time, it can blur the pics.

~Kongu Inika

[Red Baron]

Could I make a recommendation? Take your photograph in a reasonably dark room; if you have sunlight and the flash at the same time, it can blur the pics.

~Kongu Inika

I'm not quite sure what you mean, the whole point of this tutorial is so that you won't have to use the flash at all, how will taking your pictures in a dark room help?

[Machine758]

The Exo-Blunders Blunder Guide is similar to this, I dunno if it helps...

[Blood-Elf-the-ti...]

Thanxs for the tips.

[Machine758]

Indeed. they're perfect for....um..photographing LEGO Models!

[Lyger]

The Exo-Blunders Blunder Guide is similar to this, I dunno if it helps...

I wouldn't say it's similar, for one thing the fact being that your pictures in that topic also look like they could do with the advice here. Most of them use flash and/or are blurry.

Looks like a handy guide here. 'Course my dad has an incredibly expensive camera and knows a lot about photography but there are a few things here and there concerning small things like Lego models that I never really considered, like the white posterboard to reflect light. Even when I use my dad's giant floodlight (come to think of it, especially when) I get huge shadows. I tried it and it seemed to reduce it a bit, but not quite as much as I liked. Doesn't really help considering the inconvenient arrangement of lights in my room...

... and both my white posterboards now have something drawn on them. Anything that might reduce the shadows a bit more?

[Arpy]

This is an excellent guide that I think would benefit everyone. I've pinned it as it will make a great reference.

Might it not benefit more people if it were moved or copied to the BBC forum?

Arpy

[Toaraga]

Take lots of pictures!

This is especially good advice, as even the most professional photographer is bound to get some photos that are bad or that the person just doesn't like. Of course, I sometimes take way too many pictures I don't like.

Now I'll have to go through and fix some grammar.

You better. *Gives menacing look*

Solid black is a challenge. Two things to try here:

1] Get really good lighting and over expose
or
2] Use a dark coloured (grey or black preferably) backdrop, this will create more contrast between the dark tones, and not just between white and black.

Hmm, I never thought of using a dark backdrop for black MOC/set. I'll have to give that a try.

Looks like a handy guide here. 'Course my dad has an incredibly expensive camera and knows a lot about photography but there are a few things here and there concerning small things like Lego models that I never really considered, like the white posterboard to reflect light.

Indeed, I usually try to use something light-colored (if I can find it) to deflect the flash from whatever I was taking a picture of. Unfortunately, I don't always find the objects or space I'm looking for to take the pictures I'd like.

Mixing outdoor background and indoor object doesn't really work either; sadly, some people try this for some reason. (I guess it's to try to give a certain kind of setting to the MOC.)

That first picture gives a sense of crashing.

©1984-2007 Toaraga EAM

[-Icarus-]

Here's a tip: Make sure that most of the lighting is coming from just to your left, and take the picture from the front left corner of the creation. This way the more of the object is shown and it is well lit. An alternative is to do this on your right hand side rather than your left, but for some reason it is not as pleasing to the eye.
...
TToT

[Red Baron]

... and both my white posterboards now have something drawn on them. Anything that might reduce the shadows a bit more?

Well, anything white will do - bedsheets, towels, etc. But in lieu of anything, wait for an overcast day and go outside. I mean, the suggestions in this guide have you using natural lighting anyways - inside is just a more controllable environment. Backdrop is still preferable for ease of viewing later, but it's no longer needed to provide ample lighting. A great number of pictures taken outdoors will be very sharp and clear.

Overcast will provide the diffusion of light needed to get rid of most shadows. Direct sunlight may be a bit too strong, and will give you shadows.

[Lyger]

This is an excellent guide that I think would benefit everyone. I've pinned it as it will make a great reference.

Might it not benefit more people if it were moved or copied to the BBC forum?

Arpy

Oh yeah. Some of those BBC 42 pics make my eyes water, because so many are small MoCs taken close-up...

Overcast, light diffusion, got it. I'll get a smoke machine for my room.

(haha, kidding... but I still want a smoke machine)

[Wrinkledlion X]

Next, a Backdrop. One thing to avoid is a cluttered background, it distracts the eye from the model itself. So go get a piece of White Poster Board, Bristol Board, or at the very least a white bed sheet. Find a chair or something with a right angle (a table against a wall would also work), something with ambient lighting from your window - avoid having direct light from your window (i.e.: if you can see shadows of the slats that run through your window, move out of that patch of light) across your setup as this will result in some washed-out areas of the photograph as your camera compensates for the difference in lighting. So as I said, look for ambient lighting. Drape your backdrop along that right angle, making sure it's secure - it should curve down from the vertical surface onto the horizontal one, but make sure you have enough flat space to place things. Flat space: unless you are already placing the Backdrop on a hard flat surface, you may want to put one under the backdrop, so that your models will have a stable flat surface to rest.

Actually, I'd suggest you spray paint your backdrop from a distance so that it looks less flat. Like here.

[- Icy J -]

Wait, about the CameraPhone bit... I have one, but it has 3.2 megapixels, focus and image stabilizer. Will that still be OK?

[Lyger]

Next, a Backdrop. One thing to avoid is a cluttered background, it distracts the eye from the model itself. So go get a piece of White Poster Board, Bristol Board, or at the very least a white bed sheet. Find a chair or something with a right angle (a table against a wall would also work), something with ambient lighting from your window - avoid having direct light from your window (i.e.: if you can see shadows of the slats that run through your window, move out of that patch of light) across your setup as this will result in some washed-out areas of the photograph as your camera compensates for the difference in lighting. So as I said, look for ambient lighting. Drape your backdrop along that right angle, making sure it's secure - it should curve down from the vertical surface onto the horizontal one, but make sure you have enough flat space to place things. Flat space: unless you are already placing the Backdrop on a hard flat surface, you may want to put one under the backdrop, so that your models will have a stable flat surface to rest.

Actually, I'd suggest you spray paint your backdrop from a distance so that it looks less flat. Like here.

Depends on the effect your going for. Either way, your background should never overpower your model.

I prefer flat. Because then, well, the model's the only thing there.

...and it's easier to cut out on Photoshop. ^^;

[rodger rodger]

im making a lego starwars movie any tips

[Boba-Fett]

Dear Red Baron,
I have an issue with the back-drop rule. I have an MOC so large that the thing will not even fit behind it. What can I do to make a backdrop? Thanks.


---..

[Arpy]

Given that RB hasn't visisted here in over a month, I think I can safely answer this for him. My advice would be to get a bigger backdrop, such as a white sheet. If you can't do that, then find a place with a light-colored wall, a light carpet or floor, and no reflective surfaces.

Arpy

[Ferrariguy90]

Just found this topic a few seconds ago, and I'm already going to add this to my online favorites; it's an invaluable resource.

About a week ago I used some tips like these which many of our members may already have the resources for:

• I used the outside of my black Toys-R-Us Bionicle mask collecting pack, unrolled, as a background, setting it against something tall, wide, and heavy (my bed), with my carpet as the floor. Not exactly professional, but simple enough.
• I used a Rahkshi canister to stabilize my camera as I have a knack for taking blurry pictures. I rested my camera on top of the lid-end of it and most of my pictures turned out rather nicely.
• I brought my desk-lamp down onto the floor and positioned it at an angle to the creation. This gave some contrast to the picture, and made things more interesting.
• Sometimes, I turned the creations at an angle (I think "three-quarters" is the photographic term for it) to expose the sides of my MOC and, again, to make for a more interesting picture.

If anyone is trying to evoke emotion or a mood with the picture, having a head-on, straight-and-center photo makes for a bold, simple, and classic feeling to the picture. Putting your subject matter more off-center, like in the first or third "third" of the screen, makes for a more interesting and thoughtful picture.

Thanks for the tip about using poster-board; I couldn't think of anything useful enough, and will try to use that more often. *saves to favorites*

Edit: I must recommend the freeware Paint.net as a viable alternative to Photoshop, alongside the GIMP or Ifranview. It's just like MS Paint, so the interface is very familiar, yet it has many of the tools the other two mentioned programs already have. I use it frequently...the learning curve isn't that large.

Also, many BZP members probably have Microsoft Office installed. Versions 2003 and above (at the very least, 2003) come with a handy little app called "Microsoft Office Picture Manager," accessed at Start >> Programs >> Microsoft Office >> Microsoft Office Tools >> Microsoft Office Picture Manager. Here you can do minor tweaking, like brightness/contrast, as well as an invaluable resizing tool for "considerate" Brickshelf viewing.

This post has been edited by Proud Texan: Jul 10 2007, 06:03 PM

[Red Baron]

Thanks Arp. Figured I'd check in here.

Bedsheets work well as large backdrops - if you don't have white then just go for a light neutral colour. Worst comes to worse, just make sure where ever you're taking photos has a uniform background - try the middle of the floor, instead of where the floor meets the wall. This means that in any photos where that floor/wall line appears, it'll be nicely out of focus.

And thank's proud texan. Yes, a 'must' is to take pictures from an many angles as possible - and the 3/4 shot (slightly from the front and side, a bit above) is a staple! Taking full frontals is good for mechs and the like, but losses significance for other things, still include them however.

[-Auron-]

Can you take good pictures on a speckled generally-whitish gray carpet?

[Brickeens]

Great advice, I'm sure many people wll find this useful. (Including me.)

Look! I went from this to this.
Wonderful advice.

-Brickeens-

[-brick-]

Nice guide, Red Baron! Very helpful.

[Toa Stheno]

Thanks for creating this. My pictures are horrible. Also, you can't edit images during BBC contests.

[Ignited]

Thanks. I can give the reflectors and natural lights a try.

-Igt

[Pridak warlord]

Thanks to this guide I now know why my pictures turned out horrible even though I couldn't find any thing wrong with them.

[Middelhauve]

In the case of prolonged bad weather or other conditions that cause less sunlight to come through than desired, I like to use a high power true-white lamp (found at craft/hobby stores, but quite pricey), or a halogen flashlight, and position it parallel to the camera so the light reflects mostly into the lens and so that there's no weird glare from camera flash (which both makes the picture way too bright AND drains the battery) and white/light blue/etc. parts don't get any yellow tint from the flash or dim light.

[CP3 OF THE NBA]

This is helpful thanks I will make sure

[Gadunka's to...]

I am going to make a movie too but it is not on star wars. It is still lego but this time, it is bionicle...Hope you will be able to see it online when I post it...or will I