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Letagi

Official Rare & Promotional Collectibles Topic

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Hi everybody! I took possession of the green prototype Miru, (if this is at least interesting to someone :D). Confirmation that this mask is mine, you can see in the photo below. If you need any information about this subject, send me a PM.
qpgCPJk.jpg?1  

Edited by Alfawin

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Just found out about this topic. For the sake of completeness I wanted to point out that I have one of the 6 Trans-clear/Marbled red Hau Nuva's. I recieved mine from Black 6 at Brickfair 2010. I'd have to dig them up but I should have a blog post and Flickr post from that time frame to prove its authenticity. 

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I've made a custom dyed sand blue Rau a while back

The acetone solution didn't mesh 100% with the mask and left a little damage but the color is about spot on.

I'm going to try dying a batch of them again here soon with different solutions of heat and/or acetone to balance the color wothout damage.

I'll keep you all posted if I have greater success!

http://www.brickshelf.com/gallery/banana92/Dyed-masks/20160923_170437.jpg mask compareson

http://www.brickshelf.com/gallery/banana92/Dyed-masks/20160923_170216.jpg

On Ko-matoran


I'm digging I'm digging I'm digging I'm digging

I'm digging I'm digging

I'm digging I'm digging I'm digging I'm digging

I'm digging

 

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I've made a custom dyed sand blue Rau a while back

The acetone solution didn't mesh 100% with the mask and left a little damage but the color is about spot on.

I'm going to try dying a batch of them again here soon with different solutions of heat and/or acetone to balance the color wothout damage.

I'll keep you all posted if I have greater success!

http://www.brickshelf.com/gallery/banana92/Dyed-masks/20160923_170437.jpg mask compareson

http://www.brickshelf.com/gallery/banana92/Dyed-masks/20160923_170216.jpg

On Ko-matoran

I remember seeing this in your brickshelf gallery some time ago, great work!


My Youtube channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UClo2J14RKmVtcnoJTv7g6PA , Bionicle films coming soon!

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Thank you, I like it most for a couple reasons, the rau was never my favorite mask as a kid but it's grown on me since, it captures the water element really well.

Also, I wasn't attempting to dye it sand blue at all, and it wasn't even the mask I was trying to dye, I made a batch of a few masks and threw it in as an extra filler :D I'm really happy with it, I've only had one other dye I'd call successful


I'm digging I'm digging I'm digging I'm digging

I'm digging I'm digging

I'm digging I'm digging I'm digging I'm digging

I'm digging

 

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Hi guys, ex-Bionicle collector here. I recently came across my storage boxes with my old collectibles and figured this would be the best place to find interested collectors rather than go to generic sales sites like eBay. Happy to see this site is still active, since I bowed out soon after the KP/BZC merger (I was either monkeyams or firemaniac1219 on those sites if anyone here traded with me!).

 

Anyway, I uncovered plenty of the more common things, like a few Vahis, infected Hau Nuvas, TNGMs, and a complete Power Pack. Also a full set of gold and silver original Toa masks. The very special ones I found were 1 each of Flintsmith's pewter Vahi and metal Kraata customs. And the crowning achievement of my collection back in the day, I have a gold Kanoka I won from the Toa Metru building contest. The metal items will need a cleaning, since the years in storage have built up a bit of tarnish.

 

As I haven't actively been collecting for many years (still have the early 2000s sets though!), I have no use for these rare collectibles any more. I'd love for them to get into the hands of people that will appreciate them, so I'm wondering how the community would best be served to sell these. Should I open a standard auction/sales thread, or talk about them here? Sorry if I've broken any protocols here, but it's been a decade since I've sold Bionicle parts online! :)

Edited by monkeyams

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Cool!  How did the Vahi hold up?  Did it say sort of shiny?  I liked the kraata.  Did you get one of the bimetallic ones?  

 

I'm interested in the kanoka.  Do you have the display box and ...was there a card?

 

It would probably be best to take this out of the collectibles topic and send it (as auctions) to the main B/S/T thread.  

 

Be aware though that the traffic here has dropped off a lot (and prices can be high on eBay)

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Hi Flintsmith! Insane to see you're still active! I figured traffic here would be pretty slow, but I wanted to post here before going to eBay so people who'd appreciate it most would get the first crack at them. Might end up posting on eBay with higher prices that are unlikely to sell while talking on here.

 

As for your work, the Vahi held up extremely well, still very shiny. I'm in the process of cleaning both it and the bimetallic Kraata (that one is definitely tarnished). Good stuff  :bowdown:

 

For the Kanoka, they never gave a card of authenticity or anything, which I remember ###### me off at the time. Here's a link to photos of it and the display box that came with it: https://photos.app.goo.gl/WQQpvKyse7WuiZBf1

You can see it in the pics, but there's some brown "spots" on the surface of the disk. I know next to nothing about metallurgy, so my only guess is that whatever's under the gold may have corroded or something? All I know is the spots are there after a careful cleaning with a mild dish soap. I'm thinking of getting some precious metal cleaning solution to further clean it. Send me a PM if you're still interested!

 

Edit: I cleaned the Vahi and Kraata: https://photos.app.goo.gl/YRFdDLws69145dpX2

Looks like the Kraata might not be bimetallic after all, but I'll only know after I get some proper metal cleaner to get that inner rust off. Vahi is even shinier now!

Edited by monkeyams

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Hey all, I'm working on a Collectibles page on BS01, and I had a couple quick questions about the Kanoka.  First, does anyone know of any definitive/citeable source for what's inside the golden Kanoka?  Everything I could find from official sources just called it a gold disk or gold-plated.  One BZPower topic says that the inside is metal (correcting a previous user who thought the core was plastic), and a Eurobricks topic has a user claim the inside is sterling silver.  If anyone can verify that claim, that would be helpful.  I doubt anyone has ever intentionally stripped the gold plating off to check the inside, so I'm not certain on what basis people know what the middle is made from.  Weights? Hearsay? Statements from Lego that I can't find?  It's not really a big deal, but I'm curious.

 

Also, does anyone recall where the blank glow-in-the-dark Kanoka came from?  Reading this topic, it looks like they were fairly common, but it doesn't really say where they originated (contrast the blank tan and black Kanoka, distributed in Legoland Billund in 2005).

 

Thanks!


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 ^               Often lurking, occasionally writing about sets on BS01.                     


L     This link is a bit old, but there's still some good info about combiners there.


 

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I own the gold kanoka. It is certified 14k gold, but it's probably plated. Judging by the weight, it's absolutely not plastic. Perhaps metal or silver. However, I'm not sure why they would bother make the inside of sterling silver simply to have it plated with 14k gold afterward so my guest is simply metal. As you might assume, I'm not willing to cratch it just to find out what is underneath the gold.


"I feel far far away from everything I've ever known, but when I look back, I think of you"
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Credits to Eeko for the banner. Lewa is awesome.

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Do you have a gram scale? If so, you could weigh it so we could have a guess at density - that'd be a pretty good noninvasive test, as steel has a quite different density from sterling silver (~8 g/cc vs 10.36 g/cc). Gold would have minimal impact due to being a very thin plating layer. It could also be copper (~9 g/cc), or something else entirely.


KANOHI I NEED (faded are ones I already have):

kanohicollection.png.7c9e0b6335614288d490c997f80176cf.png

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Do you have a gram scale? If so, you could weigh it so we could have a guess at density - that'd be a pretty good noninvasive test, as steel has a quite different density from sterling silver (~8 g/cc vs 10.36 g/cc). Gold would have minimal impact due to being a very thin plating layer. It could also be copper (~9 g/cc), or something else entirely.

 

I don't have a precise jewelry scale, so I used a regular kitchen scale on mine and it seems to weigh 14 grams.

Edited by Yeow


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Do you have a gram scale? If so, you could weigh it so we could have a guess at density - that'd be a pretty good noninvasive test, as steel has a quite different density from sterling silver (~8 g/cc vs 10.36 g/cc). Gold would have minimal impact due to being a very thin plating layer. It could also be copper (~9 g/cc), or something else entirely.

 

 

I don't have a precise jewelry scale, so I used a regular kitchen scale on mine and it seems to weigh 14 grams.

Please correct me if I'm wrong, but that's very light. I have an antique gold coin that's pure gold and weighs 14 grams. Coins have a smaller radius and thickness than the Kanoka disks. I feel like it has to be gold plated plastic at that weight.

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14 grams might still be metal, as the Kanoka disc is relatively thin (thinner still than any coin, if you examine the cross section) and therefore occupies little volume (increasing density). The average Kanoka disc (at a guess) would weigh 2 to 3 grams. Without knowing the volume, my guess is indeed on gold-plated steel - easy to cast, easy to plate, cheapest material options.


KANOHI I NEED (faded are ones I already have):

kanohicollection.png.7c9e0b6335614288d490c997f80176cf.png

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Wanted to show a few items from G2,

 

31314691210_24eddc55ca_z.jpg

#167, I just recently sold this one. I wanted someone else to have it, these collectibles are hard to come by and it's always cool to see how many people own them and I'm glad someone else can enjoy owning it now.. I mean yeah it goes for a pretty penny too, but hey the way I see it is one day that'll get me closer to another collectible that I haven't had a chance of owning.

 

31571782631_ed66536ae2_z.jpg

A lot of these, no comic con packaging however as they were given out by Lego at a media day event

 

30876893443_a7a81a5cc2_z.jpg

Might finally bust one of these open

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Hey all, I'm working on a Collectibles page on BS01, and I had a couple quick questions about the Kanoka.  First, does anyone know of any definitive/citeable source for what's inside the golden Kanoka?  Everything I could find from official sources just called it a gold disk or gold-plated.  One BZPower topic says that the inside is metal (correcting a previous user who thought the core was plastic), and a Eurobricks topic has a user claim the inside is sterling silver.  If anyone can verify that claim, that would be helpful.  I doubt anyone has ever intentionally stripped the gold plating off to check the inside, so I'm not certain on what basis people know what the middle is made from.  Weights? Hearsay? Statements from Lego that I can't find?  It's not really a big deal, but I'm curious.

 

 

I spent hundreads of hours on reading about collectibles and I remembered that I read somewhere that it is sterling silver inside, but I have checked my sources and it was mentioned in Eurobricks topic which you linked :P. But I also found in my sources this news from BZP which states that it is "gold-plated solid silver kanoka disk". Also Kanoka Card from Toa Metru states that it is worth $50 if it may help in finding out by calculating using weight.

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14 grams might still be metal, as the Kanoka disc is relatively thin (thinner still than any coin, if you examine the cross section) and therefore occupies little volume (increasing density). The average Kanoka disc (at a guess) would weigh 2 to 3 grams. Without knowing the volume, my guess is indeed on gold-plated steel - easy to cast, easy to plate, cheapest material options.

I've been trying to buy one for a while, barely missed getting one a couple months ago. The person said it had cosmetic damage and looked a bit rusted (as if what was under the gold was corroded). I think that fits with the steel theory (although silver will tarnish too). With the original $50 worth though, idk anyone know the value of gold and silver back then? I think that would narrow down whether it's steel or silver.

 

Note: would still love to get my hands on one still if anyone's interested in selling one...

Edited by jchavoya

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Bricklink has two different listings for the mass of a disk; a Throwbots disk or McToran disk has a listed weight of 1.42 grams, but a Kanoka from 2004 has a listed weight of 2.01 grams.  I'm not sure whether this difference is a clerical mistake on Bricklink, or if Lego made the Kanoka a bit thicker than the older disks (the part number changed from 32171 to 32533 between 2001 and 2004), or if the glow-in-the-dark plastic used for the Kanoka is a different material that's a bit denser.  According to Google, ABS plastic has a mean density of 1.05 g/cm^3 (if anyone has a more accurate number for Lego's particular strain of ABS, that'd help).  Mild steel has a density of around 7.85 g/cm^3, and silver has a density of 10.5 g/cm^3.

 

If we assume that an ABS Kanoka has a mass of 1.42 g and a density of 1.07 g/cm^3, we get the following results (neglecting the extra mass of the thin gold layer):

Disk Volume: 1.33 cm^3

Mass of Steel Disk: 10.42 g

Mass of Silver Disk: 13.93 g

 

If we assume that an ABS Kanoka has a mass of 2.01 g and a density of 1.07 g/cm^3, we get the following results (neglecting the extra mass of the thin gold layer):

Disk Volume: 1.88 cm^3

Mass of Steel Disk: 14.75 g

Mass of Silver Disk: 19.72 g

 

With a measured mass of 14 grams, the first set of assumptions would imply that the Gold Kanoka has a silver core, and the second set of assumptions would imply that the Gold Kanoka has a steel core.  It may be necessary to more definitively determine the volume of a Kanoka disk to reach a solid conclusion.  I have a McToran disk and a Kanoka on hand; I'll check to see if I notice any differences in weight or in the mold, but I don't have easy access to any more accurate measurement tools.


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 ^               Often lurking, occasionally writing about sets on BS01.                     


L     This link is a bit old, but there's still some good info about combiners there.


 

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Here's a brass kanoka I made back in the day.  You can see it's very thin.  I'll mass it tomorrow.

 

post-475-0-06366200-1527753038_thumb.jpg

 

I'm sure the LEGO originals aren't steel.  Steel has a very high melting point and it's a pain to plate it.  Typically they plate it three times:  Copper then nickel then gold or something like that.  Of course you could grab a magnet and prove me wrong.

 

Sterling is a good choice.  It's not that expensive and they were not making that many disks.  Gold plating sticks very well.

 

Cheaper than silver is "German Silver".  It's basically brass that has had enough nickel added to it to turn it white.  That's what I used to make weapons, krana, kraata and "Platinum" Avohkii.

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The mass of the disk I made is 8.79. Mine is mostly copper, so ~8.96g/cc.

 

Converting to steel (~8g/cc) gives 7.8g.

Converting to sterling (10.5g/cc) gives 10.3g

Converting to 14k gold (~14.2g/cc depending on the alloy) gives 13.9g.

 

If a genuine disk actually masses 14g, it's solid gold.

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I suppose we'll need other people to weigh their disks to see if the weights match up. If it were solid gold, I would have thought they would have advertised that fact more, but who knows. 



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I suppose we'll need other people to weigh their disks to see if the weights match up. If it were solid gold, I would have thought they would have advertised that fact more, but who knows.

 

I don't think weight of the disk is the issue any more. We need volume now. Anyone with 14g of for sure actual gold and a disk? There's a famous story of Archimedes determining whether a crown was solid gold by dropping both the crown and gold (weighing the same amount) in water. Both piles were the same weight, but the crown (displacing more water) had a larger volume, and was determined to contain other metals mixed in. The only way to determine if it's solid gold I would think is to confirm it has the exact same volume a 14g piece of gold should have.

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I suppose we'll need other people to weigh their disks to see if the weights match up. If it were solid gold, I would have thought they would have advertised that fact more, but who knows.

I don't think weight of the disk is the issue any more. We need volume now. Anyone with 14g of for sure actual gold and a disk? There's a famous story of Archimedes determining whether a crown was solid gold by dropping both the crown and gold (weighing the same amount) in water. Both piles were the same weight, but the crown (displacing more water) had a larger volume, and was determined to contain other metals mixed in. The only way to determine if it's solid gold I would think is to confirm it has the exact same volume a 14g piece of gold should have.

 

 

This was estimated by back-calculating the volume of a regular Kanoka given the density of ABS plastic and the specified mass of the disk (according to Bricklink), which I would imagine is a fairly accurate means of measurement (water displacement relying on the markings on your water container, which usually have tolerances associated with them).

 

Strange, then, that the mass would lie closer to the 'solid' disc when others have said it was plated - unless they meant 14k plated in 24k gold? I think we need some more significant digits on this one.

Edited by kanohicollector1

KANOHI I NEED (faded are ones I already have):

kanohicollection.png.7c9e0b6335614288d490c997f80176cf.png

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I doubt that the disks are solid gold; aside from the older sources mentioning plating, the values don't line up.  The Gold Kanoka had a stated value of $50.  In 2004, the price of one troy ounce of gold (31.1035 grams) was roughly $400.  Then, it follows that $50 of gold would weigh approximately 3.9 ounces, far lighter than the measured 14-gram specimen.

 

Would it be possible that a silver base disk (~10.3 grams) was then plated with ~3-4 grams of gold?  I'm not sure how noticeably such an operation would increase the disk's thickness, but that would make sense both price-wise and weight-wise (pending further, more accurate measurements).  The price of the silver shouldn't have much of an impact; it looks like ~14 grams of silver would only cost around $3.50 in 2004.  As a note, these value estimates are based only on the worth of the raw precious metals, and it is possible that Lego developed their $50 estimate under the assumption that forming the raw metals into a collectible disk would increase the value somewhat. 

 

Also, not to derail this Gold Kanoka discussion, but now that there are a few more eyes on this topic, I'm still curious if anyone knows how people initially got their hands on the blank glow-in-the-dark Kanoka.  Where did they come from before they entered the secondhand market?  (It's really too bad that the old forum archives disappeared, I'm sure there was an answer there.)

  • Upvote 1

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 ^               Often lurking, occasionally writing about sets on BS01.                     


L     This link is a bit old, but there's still some good info about combiners there.


 

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I've reignited a Bionicle interest and would love a lot of the rarer pieces like WMKK, SDCC Kanoka, and chrome & gold plated items. Even Gold Hau, I'd put down several thousands for (it would take me a couple of months of course). Willing to pay decent prices. My email is LowMango@hotmail.com, send me a message here, a pm, or on eBay (lowmango on eBay), and I've also got discord at LowMango#4354 

Thanks :-) 

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Can anyone tell me if there was just one variation of the copper Komau and if it was translucent? Because this photo seem to suggest it was.

 

I always thought the UK (European) Huna was opaque and the US Huna was translucent, but these two supposedly came from a Swedish Legoland bundle.

 

So is there an opaque copper Komau or not?

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$50 OR MORE FOR THIS CD! C4oo0TM.png $50 OR MORE FOR THIS CD!

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Dunno if this has ever been mentioned here, but I noticed it a while back. When going through my collection of krana and using a blacklight to see the difference in color on the purple krana I'd just received in a BL order, I noticed that two of the yellow krana from that same order did something similar. I pulled out the rest of the yellow krana in my collection, and sure enough, there's two different shades of yellow krana as well.

 

If that's not on the list, it might be worth adding in, just for the sake of completion.

  • Upvote 1

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Dunno if this has ever been mentioned here, but I noticed it a while back. When going through my collection of krana and using a blacklight to see the difference in color on the purple krana I'd just received in a BL order, I noticed that two of the yellow krana from that same order did something similar. I pulled out the rest of the yellow krana in my collection, and sure enough, there's two different shades of yellow krana as well.

 

If that's not on the list, it might be worth adding in, just for the sake of completion.

 

Interesting! Are the yellow ones the only ones?

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Dunno if this has ever been mentioned here, but I noticed it a while back. When going through my collection of krana and using a blacklight to see the difference in color on the purple krana I'd just received in a BL order, I noticed that two of the yellow krana from that same order did something similar. I pulled out the rest of the yellow krana in my collection, and sure enough, there's two different shades of yellow krana as well.

 

If that's not on the list, it might be worth adding in, just for the sake of completion.

 

Interesting! Are the yellow ones the only ones?

 

I went over some of the other colors, but so far, purple and yellow are the only ones that show off different shades. Dunno if the ones I noticed it on were from an odd batch, or if the color varies between krana types, but I figured it was worth noting.


~Your friendly, neighborhood Shadow

 

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Dunno if this has ever been mentioned here, but I noticed it a while back. When going through my collection of krana and using a blacklight to see the difference in color on the purple krana I'd just received in a BL order, I noticed that two of the yellow krana from that same order did something similar. I pulled out the rest of the yellow krana in my collection, and sure enough, there's two different shades of yellow krana as well.

 

If that's not on the list, it might be worth adding in, just for the sake of completion.

I will say more, there is a topic: http://www.bzpower.com/board/topic/10959-different-yellow-krana/ where this has already been find out) Certainly, it is strange that the author of this article has not yet added these Krana to the list

Edited by Alfawin

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Can anyone tell me if there was just one variation of the copper Komau and if it was translucent? Because this photo seem to suggest it was.

 

I always thought the UK (European) Huna was opaque and the US Huna was translucent, but these two supposedly came from a Swedish Legoland bundle.

 

So is there an opaque copper Komau or not?

 

I already asked this question 3 years ago in this topic :P. But it seems that Letagi's answer from back then may be correct. I lately purchased sealed Copper Komau which was available in Lorenz chips in Poland and it is very translucent when one of those two Komau which I posted 3 years ago is only sligthly translucent (if I remember correctly, because those two Komau are in my hometown right now and I cannot check at the moment) and second one is opaque and doesn't let any light passthrough. Overall I had few Copper Komau in my hands and I spotted both opaque and translucent.

 

EDIT:

I compared my Komaus and all of the translucent ones are translucent on the same level. So it seems that there are opaque and translucent ones. In normal light opaque ones have sharper and darker edges than translucent ones, just like comparing Flat Silver with Pearl Light Gray. Here is gallery with comparison photos which I took few moments ago:

 

https://imgur.com/a/QG72D96

Edited by Mask Hunter Lewa

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Hello everyone! I am writing my own version of the article on collectibles for the Russian community. I use this article as one of the sources. And I have a question about Tan Kanoka, Black Kanoka and Blank Kanoka. As I noticed on sales, the Tanoka and Blank Kanoka are less common than some of the pieces in their "hard to find" category. Why then are they much cheaper than the same conventional misprints? Or I don't know, and they're not so rare? Or a small popularity compared with Kanohi masks so greatly affects their price? And the Black Kanoka has no price, and it is not understood how much it should cost. Also, I have questions about other pieces, and if someone wants to help me, I will be very grateful)

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