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Mr. Cod

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Everything posted by Mr. Cod

  1. Someone has actually gone and made a couple parts like this already! Go check them out.
  2. I would take this with a grain of salt since I haven't actually done any molding myself, but from what I know resin will not be as high quality as LEGO plastics, and will be a bit more flexible. Most molds I've seen are made out of silicone. I'm not sure if there's an easy way to replicate LEGO quality material since they use high pressure injection molds, which are fairly pricy. As for the painting question, I do have experience with that. Short answer: no. There are some paints that are fairly durable, but regularly moving the joints (and especially with the added friction since the paint will make the ball slightly larger) will wear the paint off with time. The only thing I can think of that would definitely last on a ball joint would be dyes.
  3. They're not images, they're the actual CAD files. Though I do admit having a couple screenshots would be nice so you don't have to open up AutoCAD every time to look at them.
  4. Might I suggest connecting the shapes together in one large sweeping shape instead?
  5. I like the colors. Left arm seems a bit short compared to the right one.
  6. Yup! I think all the ones I have up here now have been sold, but you can always commission a copy.
  7. Update: New batch of masks to look at.
  8. "The eyes of time" six times, one for each area?
  9. A dead cel battery. They're pretty good for making stuff in miniature terrain pieces, so I have about twenty or so in a box.
  10. Nope, these ones were just for fun, and to get ready for brickfair.
  11. So I went to add more masks to my other post, but as it turns out there's a maximum number of images per post even when they're externally hosted. Who knew? Anyway, here's some masks. First off we have a few conversions. And the rest are plain old paint jobs. EDIT: More masks more masks more masks more masks more masks more masks more masks more masks more masks! As usual, I have more stuff on DeviantArt, Flickr, and Tumblr to anyone interested, and if you want to buy anything shoot me an e-mail at modaltcom@gmail.com.
  12. Lately I've been running out of certain masks to paint, and need to do some restocking. Color doesn't matter since I would be painting them. Ideally 20 or more masks at a time to keep shipping costs low, and somewhere in the range of a dollar per mask. I'll take pretty much any gen1 mask, especially mata masks.
  13. You probably shouldn't make a comment that's just an attempt to get people to look at your post, it's a bit inconsiderate. Especially when you don't even address the original post whatsoever.
  14. Mr. Cod


    To being with, I love the feel of the picture, the composition is great and you nailed the style. My issue is more of an architectural one, with a few inconsistencies between building types (though judging from the original text describing it as ancient Greek and then including amphitheaters that's more their fault then yours).
  15. I'm usually more of an arts and crafts guy, but when I can get my hands on the parts I do like to tinker. These two are the ones I like the most. Criticism is welcome, as I don't have that much experience with CCBS, and learning what I'm doing right/wrong would be a huge help!
  16. My MOCing ability is middling at best, but maybe a whip or some sort of flail for the weapon?
  17. Lovely designs, my favorite is the concept for the mask of shape-shifting. The shapes of some of the masks seem similar though. My suggestion would be to draw just the silhouettes of the masks and figure out how to make the profile of each one distinct. You have a solid thematic connection between all the masks, so they'll still feel like they go together even if you change the massing drastically.
  18. I love these, especially the Kopaka uniter! You might want to tone down the bloom effects though, they're starting to overwhelm the pictures.
  19. It sounds like you were either spraying too close to the mask, or spraying too much primer on at once. You really only need one coat for small things like kanohi, but the only way to get the excess primer off is like Click said, with sanding. You don't need a sander though, just some 400-600 grit sanding paper should do, which you can find at hardware stores and hobby shops. Make sure next time you prime to hold the can about eight inches away from the mask and do quick passes to avoid drips and globs.
  20. I try to use technic pieces for the most part, usually just an axle and a basic connector depending on what the connection is for the mask I'm priming.
  21. I usually put my masks on a stand when I'm priming them so that no part of the mask touches anything before the primer dries (besides the connection point, but you won't be seeing much of that as it is). Plus if you use a stand you shouldn't get any primer on your hands so you won't have to wear gloves. As for a mask, as long as you're in a well ventilated area (i.e. outside) you shouldn't need one. Just be sure to spray away from any sort of air intake. The chance for cancer is pretty small from what I understand, as long as you aren't huffing the paint.
  22. I've found that citadel paints work pretty well on most Bionicle masks. Make sure you use a spray primer on the mask first, it makes the paint stick much better and will prevent chipping in most situations. As for getting the desired look, I would suggest using a bright color on the inset portions of the mask, then doing some drybrushing/weathering on the rest of it to give it that aged look. Games Workshop has a lot of good painting tutorials like this one for lots of painting techniques, so perusing those a bit should help immensely. You might even want to do some rough sanding on the mask to get a nice weathered texture to it.
  23. Tourmalinex outlined pretty much all the basic steps, I would suggest looking up some tutorials for painting miniatures, they have pretty much the same process as painting kanohi. If you're looking for a solid color any spray paint should do fine, but if you want designs/detailing you'll have to use acrylics like Tourmalinex said, some good brands are citadel and vallejo, which you can find in most hobby shops.
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