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3D prints for sale: Voriki conversion parts and mask of possibilities


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Exactly what it says in the title, shop can be found here.

 

The mask of possibilities is based on the canonized depiction of Toa Nikila, as created by BZP member Vrahno. The Voriki mask and staff piece are based on the "leaked" seventh toa, Voriki, a notorious fake picture.

 

As for the actual product, here's a picture, followed by a bit of a writeup on 3D printed masks in general. You may skip this if you find it TL;DR, though I may ask you to read it if you ask questions it answers.

YM7Hiu7.jpg

 

First off, bit about the process behind making these. I do it via shapeways. I do not own a 3D printer, I do not plan on owning one in the near future. I want one, however. The 3D printers they use at shapeways work by putting nylon powder in a huge box, then fusing the powder together with a laser. It's exactly as cool as it sounds.

 

The results are pretty great as well. One thing worth noting is that the exact tightness of the pegs may vary. This is because the printers have an inherent slight inaccuracy. If the connection is too tight, I suggest gently scraping the peg with a knife, or filing the sides down a bit.

 

Another thing worth noting is that the texture of the product may come off as a bit rough. This has some advantages if you want to paint it, but also some disadvantages. Most notably, it'll feel different from lego parts. A simple solution to this is high-grit sandpaper, proper polishing should get it down to a more preferable finish.

 

The best results, however, will most likely come from painting. For this I recommend first spraying the part with a primer, then sanding to get a good finish, then painting, followed by a gloss varnish. Ideally you'll want an airbrush to do this, but airbrushes are expensive, so you'll probably be going for a spray can or hand painting.

 

If you're hand painting, I have something very important you need to hear before you even try:
Thin.

YOUR.

PAINTS.

There is just no question about it, if you paint by hand, you have to thin your paint. Multiple thin layers of paint will ALWAYS be better than globbing paint on and letting it dry. It takes longer, but you'll thank me when your finish looks better, the paint is sturdier and the details still exist. The same applies to any hand-painted varnish you choose to use. Thinning paint depends on what paint you're using, if you're using an acrylic paint you'll either thin with alcohol, thinner of the same brand as the paint, or water. Water usually works. Thin on the palette. If you're using an enamel paint, you use mineral spirits/white spirit. This is a smelly option that takes long to dry. Don't breathe the fumes for long, it's bad for your brain.

 

As for spray painting, you'll want to do this outdoors, preferably in a place with little wind, dry weather, and a surface you don't mind getting paint on. Spray thin coats, it's better to have to go back and spray another coat than to overspray and potentially have the paint pool into recesses and ruin the detail.

 

I've yet to actually do any of this to my own masks, but I'll get it done eventually since I happen to paint Warhammer models as a hobby. I do lots of things.

 

If you have any questions not covered by this, feel free to ask.

  • Upvote 6

I make stuff sometimes.

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