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Red Star Studios


Eeko

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Red Star Studios Animators HQ

 

Alrighty, this is the official place for the animators to find out what they're supposed to be doing. Which, by extension, means that if you're not an animator, or at least not in this project, you don't need to post here. So don't. :)

Once we actually have some work to show, I'll make this into a topic.

DM Tahu

DM Kualus

DM Onua

Turaga Dume

DM Pohatu

Krika -Pirgah

Leech'd Takanuva -Sukura

DM Kopaka -Phantax

DM Bomonga -Eeko

Metruan template -Pirgah

Tuyet -Duo Oratar

DM Jaller -Devak

Kojol -Devak

Street where Taka lands. (This is for if someone really doesn't feel like doing a character, or gets tired of doing characters.) -Duo Oratar

 

 

So, just comment with what you'd like to work on, and we'll go from there. If you decide one of the sketches aren't any good, or too hard to model, PM me and I'll alert the concept artists.

 

Happy modeling!

 

 

~Eeko~

162 Comments


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lewathetoa, I think that they may be able to start to trickle through. How about say...three characters?

 

Oh and ElevenGuy - congratualtions on making Tahu! (or was it kopaka?) - I 'll check the movies for a good shot of the great temple, and maybe theres one on BS01.

 

Thanks(it's Tahu! Yay!)! I already checked BS01, and the pic there won't work 'cause its at an angle.

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A few comments.

 

Seeing as Takanuva and the Matoran template is near completion (which would knock out Kapura) could we try to get Tahu and Kopaka done some we can attempt to animate the first scenes. I haven't had much time to work on Blender due to a few other things (this project being a big part of the other things) but if someone can explain it to me, I'd be able to render (I think. I might be midunderstanding what render means).

 

I don't want to rush you guys or put any pressure on you but it would be easier to get that taken care of now. We have voice actors for Takanuva, Kapura, Kopaka, and Tahu already chosen. This would also give the composers and chance to start on, well, composing.

 

I don't want to rush this project and if you guys feel that it's too early, then I understand. But once those characters are done, you'll be set through the first two scenes. Again, you guys tell me what's best for you and we'll do that. I just wanted to put this out there.

 

Pirgah - sorry I haven't gotten pictures of the feet. What views do you need? Also, the fingers on the Metruan template are a bit long for me. Can you shorten them by any chance?

 

This animation is awesome and it is nice to see so much effort going into this project. I'm thinking of a way to reward the animators for volunteering and putting so much time into this.

 

-LK

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On the metruan template, I think the feet are a bit large and the fingers too long. I suggest shortening them, and what happened to the palm?

 

On DM Tahu, make the mask how it looks in the art. It's supposed to look different. Do you guys like the designs?

 

As for rewarding us, 10% of the profits would be nice :P

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On the metruan template, I think the feet are a bit large and the fingers too long. I suggest shortening them, and what happened to the palm?

 

On DM Tahu, make the mask how it looks in the art. It's supposed to look different. Do you guys like the designs?

 

As for rewarding us, 10% of the profits would be nice :P

 

How about 20% of the profits (of which there will be none)? :P

 

I'll find some way to make this worth your time.

 

-LK

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Alrighty, list updated. And, as I have found I much prefer animation to modeling, I'm giving up Pohatu to someone faster and better.

I'll make a topic in just a bit.

 

 

~Eeko~
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Ick! I'd like to do Dume, but that concept, whilst beautiful, is very complex, could you get the artist to make it a alittle mkore set style? taka should be done soon enough... just need to texture and rig really.

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Yes I did, although, a word of advice, when you finish making the model, join some if the pieces together. That way you don't have one mask having five differen objects. :P

 

 

~Eeko~
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I have recently acquired Blender in the hopes of becoming an animator or modeler, but I can't get the hang of it. Does anyone have any tips for making accurate Bionicle 3D models?

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I have recently acquired Blender in the hopes of becoming an animator or modeler, but I can't get the hang of it. Does anyone have any tips for making accurate Bionicle 3D models?

 

I'm not really that great either, so I second that.

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Blender is not hard. Blender is complex. dozens of shortcuts, dozens of options and abilities.

 

at best, i can say:

 

-i designed Kojol by using 2x2x2 (standard) cubes. a "ball" piece is a subsurf 1 cube. each "bionicle unit" (a hand socket is 3 units long, 1 thick, 2 wide at it's widest) is one cube lenght. long hip sockets are 7 units long, or 14 blender units. use this for reference all the time, and you will get Bionicle with the right proportion

 

-bionicle is quite blocky. Blender has tools (smooth, subsurf, bevel) that can make softer corners with ease. therefore, it's easier to start blocky and use these tools for smoothing.

 

-make one object per bionicle piece. my Kojol mask was 5 pieces, since i designed it in 5 pieces. BTW Eeko, i made 1 piece the parent of all others, so they would follow regardless.

 

-quite miraculously, pin holes add a Bionicle feel.

 

-holes add Bionicle feel.

 

-try to either:

 

1: base pieces on existing pieces

2: use aforementioned cubes to set out the size and general shape of the piece, and then simply connect them.

 

in Blender, size does not matter, since you can easily resize. it's proportion.

 

-for rather interesting smooth shapes, take a cube, extrude 2 opposite sides, but make the extruded distance 0. thus, *select face* *E* *0* *Enter* then subsurf.

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Blender is not hard. Blender is complex.

An encouraging thought... :lol:

 

at best, i can say:

 

-i designed Kojol by using 2x2x2 (standard) cubes. a "ball" piece is a subsurf 1 cube. each "bionicle unit" (a hand socket is 3 units long, 1 thick, 2 wide at it's widest) is one cube lenght. long hip sockets are 7 units long, or 14 blender units. use this for reference all the time, and you will get Bionicle with the right proportion

 

-bionicle is quite blocky. Blender has tools (smooth, subsurf, bevel) that can make softer corners with ease. therefore, it's easier to start blocky and use these tools for smoothing.

 

-make one object per bionicle piece. my Kojol mask was 5 pieces, since i designed it in 5 pieces. BTW Eeko, i made 1 piece the parent of all others, so they would follow regardless.

 

-quite miraculously, pin holes add a Bionicle feel.

 

-holes add Bionicle feel.

 

-try to either:

 

1: base pieces on existing pieces

2: use aforementioned cubes to set out the size and general shape of the piece, and then simply connect them.

 

in Blender, size does not matter, since you can easily resize. it's proportion.

 

-for rather interesting smooth shapes, take a cube, extrude 2 opposite sides, but make the extruded distance 0. thus, *select face* *E* *0* *Enter* then subsurf.

Okay, I think this'll help. I do have a few questions, though:

 

1. How do you make pinholes?

2. How do you make an object symmetrical?

3. Are there any in-depth tutorials that you know of that could really help?

Link to comment
Blender is not hard. Blender is complex.

An encouraging thought... :lol:

 

at best, i can say:

 

-i designed Kojol by using 2x2x2 (standard) cubes. a "ball" piece is a subsurf 1 cube. each "bionicle unit" (a hand socket is 3 units long, 1 thick, 2 wide at it's widest) is one cube lenght. long hip sockets are 7 units long, or 14 blender units. use this for reference all the time, and you will get Bionicle with the right proportion

 

-bionicle is quite blocky. Blender has tools (smooth, subsurf, bevel) that can make softer corners with ease. therefore, it's easier to start blocky and use these tools for smoothing.

 

-make one object per bionicle piece. my Kojol mask was 5 pieces, since i designed it in 5 pieces. BTW Eeko, i made 1 piece the parent of all others, so they would follow regardless.

 

-quite miraculously, pin holes add a Bionicle feel.

 

-holes add Bionicle feel.

 

-try to either:

 

1: base pieces on existing pieces

2: use aforementioned cubes to set out the size and general shape of the piece, and then simply connect them.

 

in Blender, size does not matter, since you can easily resize. it's proportion.

 

-for rather interesting smooth shapes, take a cube, extrude 2 opposite sides, but make the extruded distance 0. thus, *select face* *E* *0* *Enter* then subsurf.

Okay, I think this'll help. I do have a few questions, though:

 

1. How do you make pinholes?

2. How do you make an object symmetrical?

3. Are there any in-depth tutorials that you know of that could really help?

 

Well, if you go to the Blender site, they have a section of tutorials. I recommend the wikibook; that's how I'm learning.

 

And Devak, as far as pinholes go, I would say they look really out of place on a Makuta, who is supposed to be one solid piece of armor. I always imagined that when they had their armor lined by the Nynrah Ghosts, they had all those holes blocked so that their antidermis wouldn't fall out. After all, it would be hard to keep a gas in armor that looked like swiss cheese. :P

 

 

~Lord Rahl~

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Also Devak, we were trying to no have pins and empty spaces. We were going for a more covered in armor then made out of LEGO.

 

 

~Eeko~
Link to comment
Blender is not hard. Blender is complex.

An encouraging thought... :lol:

 

at best, i can say:

 

-i designed Kojol by using 2x2x2 (standard) cubes. a "ball" piece is a subsurf 1 cube. each "bionicle unit" (a hand socket is 3 units long, 1 thick, 2 wide at it's widest) is one cube lenght. long hip sockets are 7 units long, or 14 blender units. use this for reference all the time, and you will get Bionicle with the right proportion

 

-bionicle is quite blocky. Blender has tools (smooth, subsurf, bevel) that can make softer corners with ease. therefore, it's easier to start blocky and use these tools for smoothing.

 

-make one object per bionicle piece. my Kojol mask was 5 pieces, since i designed it in 5 pieces. BTW Eeko, i made 1 piece the parent of all others, so they would follow regardless.

 

-quite miraculously, pin holes add a Bionicle feel.

 

-holes add Bionicle feel.

 

-try to either:

 

1: base pieces on existing pieces

2: use aforementioned cubes to set out the size and general shape of the piece, and then simply connect them.

 

in Blender, size does not matter, since you can easily resize. it's proportion.

 

-for rather interesting smooth shapes, take a cube, extrude 2 opposite sides, but make the extruded distance 0. thus, *select face* *E* *0* *Enter* then subsurf.

Okay, I think this'll help. I do have a few questions, though:

 

1. How do you make pinholes?

2. How do you make an object symmetrical?

3. Are there any in-depth tutorials that you know of that could really help?

 

Well, if you go to the Blender site, they have a section of tutorials. I recommend the wikibook; that's how I'm learning.

 

And Devak, as far as pinholes go, I would say they look really out of place on a Makuta, who is supposed to be one solid piece of armor. I always imagined that when they had their armor lined by the Nynrah Ghosts, they had all those holes blocked so that their antidermis wouldn't fall out. After all, it would be hard to keep a gas in armor that looked like swiss cheese. :P

 

 

~Lord Rahl~

Thanks. :) I'll add that to favorites...

 

Just so you guys know, I've PMed Than: Matoran of Anger for approval to make a Blender Help Topic in Completely Off Topic. If that gets up, people can ask for help from more experienced Blender users on BZPower--such as some of you guys (hint, hint :P).

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i know Kojol isn't entirely covered, but to me it gives a bit of a turaga-esque feel which in turn gives it a bit of an arthaka feel: intelligent, mysterious, powerful.

 

the pinholes can be easily covered though.

 

 

 

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