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Mr. Cod

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Posts posted by Mr. Cod

  1. I would take this with a grain of salt since I haven't actually done any molding myself, but from what I know resin will not be as high quality as LEGO plastics, and will be a bit more flexible. Most molds I've seen are made out of silicone. I'm not sure if there's an easy way to replicate LEGO quality material since they use high pressure injection molds, which are fairly pricy.

     

    As for the painting question, I do have experience with that. Short answer: no. There are some paints that are fairly durable, but regularly moving the joints (and especially with the added friction since the paint will make the ball slightly larger) will wear the paint off with time. The only thing I can think of that would definitely last on a ball joint would be dyes.

  2. Perhaps try using an actual photo hosting site.

     

    They're not images, they're the actual CAD files. Though I do admit having a couple screenshots would be nice so you don't have to open up AutoCAD every time to look at them.

  3.  

    That lime (Matatu? Mahiki? I can't remember!) really caught my attention. The eyepiece, what did you use to make it? Was it just an akaku scrap or was it from something else?

     

    A dead cel battery. They're pretty good for making stuff in miniature terrain pieces, so I have about twenty or so in a box.

  4. So I went to add more masks to my other post, but as it turns out there's a maximum number of images per post even when they're externally hosted. Who knew? Anyway, here's some masks.

     

    First off we have a few conversions.

     

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    And the rest are plain old paint jobs.

     

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    EDIT: More masks more masks more masks more masks more masks more masks more masks more masks more masks!

     

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    As usual, I have more stuff on DeviantArt, Flickr, and Tumblr to anyone interested, and if you want to buy anything shoot me an e-mail at modaltcom@gmail.com.

    • Upvote 6
  5. Lately I've been running out of certain masks to paint, and need to do some restocking. Color doesn't matter since I would be painting them. Ideally 20 or more masks at a time to keep shipping costs low, and somewhere in the range of a dollar per mask. I'll take pretty much any gen1 mask, especially mata masks.

  6. To being with, I love the feel of the picture, the composition is great and you nailed the style. My issue is more of an architectural one, with a few inconsistencies between building types (though judging from the original text describing it as ancient Greek and then including amphitheaters that's more their fault then yours).

  7. I'm usually more of an arts and crafts guy, but when I can get my hands on the parts I do like to tinker. These two are the ones I like the most. Criticism is welcome, as I don't have that much experience with CCBS, and learning what I'm doing right/wrong would be a huge help!

     

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    • Upvote 10
  8. If you have any ideas for what you think the Corrupter of Jungle should look like when I MOC his body, please let me know.  I'm at a loss as to what he should look like and what weapons to give him.

     

    My MOCing ability is middling at best, but maybe a whip or some sort of flail for the weapon?

  9. Lovely designs, my favorite is the concept for the mask of shape-shifting. The shapes of some of the masks seem similar though. My suggestion would be to draw just the silhouettes of the masks and figure out how to make the profile of each one distinct. You have a solid thematic connection between all the masks, so they'll still feel like they go together even if you change the massing drastically.

  10. I began painting today. I sprayed on the primer (I didn't know it was white). 4 hours later I sprayed on another layer. I am starting to question if this was a good idea, for I can see the paint start to clump like it's about to drip, and the thickness now makes the Kanohi Ignika have some of the same organic features that the Kanohi Akaku Nuva had, which is not what I want (though it seems kind of neat). Is there some way to remove the extra paint? I tried shaking the mask (via the connected rod) but none dripped off.  I tried lightly dabbing a side with newspaper but that messed up the smoothness.

     

    It sounds like you were either spraying too close to the mask, or spraying too much primer on at once. You really only need one coat for small things like kanohi, but the only way to get the excess primer off is like Click said, with sanding. You don't need a sander though, just some 400-600 grit sanding paper should do, which you can find at hardware stores and hobby shops. Make sure next time you prime to hold the can about eight inches away from the mask and do quick passes to avoid drips and globs.

  11. How do you have your stand set up? I have a small one but it I made it out of Bionicle pieces and I don't necessarily want to get paint on the pieces.

     

     

    I try to use technic pieces for the most part, usually just an axle and a basic connector depending on what the connection is for the mask I'm priming.

  12. I got paint (including spray paint) and brushes for Christmas (thank ol' Nikolas at Bari)! Before I begin painting my Kanohi Ignika, I wanted to know if I should have other things and other specifics such as: what should my mask be on as I spray paint it? Should I wear a mask? Do I need a stand of some sort for the mask while it is being painted on or is it fine being painted on while on a flat surface? Should I wear gloves? Eye protection (goggles)? The spray can says this stuff can give me cancer, what are the specifics on that? :lol:

     

    As this is an update I thought it would be fine if there was a double post. Staffers, please do correct me if I am wrong.

    I usually put my masks on a stand when I'm priming them so that no part of the mask touches anything before the primer dries (besides the connection point, but you won't be seeing much of that as it is). Plus if you use a stand you shouldn't get any primer on your hands so you won't have to wear gloves. As for a mask, as long as you're in a well ventilated area (i.e. outside) you shouldn't need one. Just be sure to spray away from any sort of air intake. The chance for cancer is pretty small from what I understand, as long as you aren't huffing the paint.

  13. I've found that citadel paints work pretty well on most Bionicle masks. Make sure you use a spray primer on the mask first, it makes the paint stick much better and will prevent chipping in most situations. As for getting the desired look, I would suggest using a bright color on the inset portions of the mask, then doing some drybrushing/weathering on the rest of it to give it that aged look. Games Workshop has a lot of good painting tutorials like this one for lots of painting techniques, so perusing those a bit should help immensely. You might even want to do some rough sanding on the mask to get a nice weathered texture to it.

    • Upvote 3
  14. Tourmalinex outlined pretty much all the basic steps, I would suggest looking up some tutorials for painting miniatures, they have pretty much the same process as painting kanohi. If you're looking for a solid color any spray paint should do fine, but if you want designs/detailing you'll have to use acrylics like Tourmalinex said, some good brands are citadel and vallejo, which you can find in most hobby shops.

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