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Flintsmith

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Posts posted by Flintsmith

  1.  

     

    Thanks for posting that.  I lost.  I tied with the winner but his bid went in 13 seconds before mine so he had priority.

     

    The most basic rule of Internet auctions: NEVER, absolutely NEVER place bids ending with .00 cents. It is the easiest way to lose auction. Always add random cents ending to overbid people in situations like this. I'm doing this since 2006 and thanks to this rule I won over 50 auctions which would be lost if I placed bid with 00 ending. Many times I trolled people by overbiding them by one cent - the most satisfying way to win auction :D.

     

    You say these words.  Will eBay even accept $500.01 as a bid over $500.00? No.  The minimum bid increment above $500.00 is $10.

  2. Ha!  You had me going with that Gold+Trans-green thing.  I was thinking "What?? Never heard of that!!"

    Then when I looked at the photo the gold one had undertones of neon green (maybe that's reflecting off the TNGM or maybe it's my monitor).  

    All these years and I'm still enthusiastic.

     

    It looks like the copper Hunas are 5x European and 1x US.  Everyone says the distribution of the types were separate, but I know the ones at my local TRU were mixed.

  3. Hey Bub,

    You have mostly "bulk" parts there.  Those sell on eBay for 7-20 a pound (shipped) in random assortments, though I see someone gets $30 while adding shipping.  I guess it depends on how patient you are. I'll be selling my son's stuff soon.  I'll be disappointed if I don't get $10/lb ($20/kg).  An option is to reassemble the sets but it's a lot of hours and you'll need all those pins and gears.  My son refuses to even look at them.

     

    Some people separate out the masks because those sell for more.  Some people leave them in to get more from the bulk.  If you want to have selling them be your hobby, Bricklink will let you sell each piece separately.

     

    (That $30 guy might have sold pounds at a lower price earlier.  With the new higher price the old sales would still be shown making it look like he sold them at $30.  Personally, I doubt any random pounds have ever sold at that price.)

     

    Oh.  Pull out the kraata.  (double-click the word then right-click and search google) but you only have a couple that are "wild".  The good ones are NOT green/green, white/white, blue/blue etc.

  4. Here's a brass kanoka I made back in the day.  You can see it's very thin.  I'll mass it tomorrow.

     

    post-475-0-06366200-1527753038_thumb.jpg

     

    I'm sure the LEGO originals aren't steel.  Steel has a very high melting point and it's a pain to plate it.  Typically they plate it three times:  Copper then nickel then gold or something like that.  Of course you could grab a magnet and prove me wrong.

     

    Sterling is a good choice.  It's not that expensive and they were not making that many disks.  Gold plating sticks very well.

     

    Cheaper than silver is "German Silver".  It's basically brass that has had enough nickel added to it to turn it white.  That's what I used to make weapons, krana, kraata and "Platinum" Avohkii.

    • Upvote 1
  5. Commander Kumo found the chest armor on BL last summer and fall (Thanks CK!).  Shoulder armor is easily available for 2 cents.  56 axes were sold recently (since November) for $5-7 each.  

     

    But that's the past.  Is it worth $100?  

     

    The description looks 100% accurate.  He says it's a MOC and has unreleased parts, which he lists.  

     

    There's a single axe for $17 shipped and the variant cover comic someone was just looking for. $40 for that.

  6. Cool!  How did the Vahi hold up?  Did it say sort of shiny?  I liked the kraata.  Did you get one of the bimetallic ones?  

     

    I'm interested in the kanoka.  Do you have the display box and ...was there a card?

     

    It would probably be best to take this out of the collectibles topic and send it (as auctions) to the main B/S/T thread.  

     

    Be aware though that the traffic here has dropped off a lot (and prices can be high on eBay)

  7. The parts are probably worth less than your art (though we all love our mis-colored parts here).  I bet that if you put your original sketches together with the final version in a frame... maybe with some notes from the art director describing what you were meant to draw you'd get a lot of interest.

  8. Do they expect me to pay $200 this year and $400 next year and each year after that?  

     

    Or is it that I have a year to download a ton of books that I'll be free to use a couple years from now?

     

     I go to the Maker's Faire  in May every year and there are always TONS of neat books.  I bought two books and found them both very useful.  If they were going to snatch them away next May I'd be sad.

     

     

    Here's the better one of the two:

    https://www.abebooks.com/9781680450064/Props-Costume-Armor-Create-Realistic-1680450069/plp

    Pepakura !

  9.  

    The piece is obviously the same, but the packaging has several minor changes indicating the VIP status.

     

    Clearly there was some kind of a screw-up.  The packaging says that only 150 were made but they were distributed on the same day as another 1500. Probably, it was the plan to have the 150 actually be from a batch of 150.  I wonder what they were supposed to be.  Maybe it was those orange-swirled ones.  If I were the LEGO employee on the scene I'd have been embarrassed to be handing out the same-old-same-old clear Tahu masks.  VIPs should get unique stuff akin to the trans-blue Gali masks.

     

    I'm a believer in the theory that nearly everything that goes wrong is due to incompetence, but I wonder where those 150 masks went.

  10.  

    It's funny that the same guy is selling one of the other MANY that were given away at CC.  

    Am I right?  The only difference is that one card is printed "#057 of 100 made" while the other was handed out by the thousand??

     

    He bought it 3 months ago: http://www.ebay.com/itm/LEGO-Bionicle-2014-NYCC-VIP-Exclusive-Tahu-Mask-57-of-100-made-Extremely-RARE-/162536625803

  11. I mostly did dying and lost-plastic metal casting.  There was a guy though who made masks from resin.  I think that would be the way to do this mask since you want clear.  2-part silicone to make the mold then 2-part casting resin.

     

    I bet this would work with resin instead of injection: http://www.instructables.com/id/Home-Plastic-Injection-Molding-with-an-Epoxy-Mold/

     

    If you do intend to do the hot-plastic plan start with a google search "instructables.com injection molding".

     

    FYI, transparent LEGO pieces are made from polycarbonate, not ABS.

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