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Flintsmith

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Everything posted by Flintsmith

  1. Thanks! That vahi is made from my favorite alloy. I went to a metal recycling place to buy some scrap brass for masks and they had stacks of welding rods used in high tech metal work, like rockets and jet engines. I bought the "aluminum bronze" you see there. It looks golden like brass but the aluminum forms an impenetrable sapphire layer that keeps out oxygen. They don't tarnish!! A decade later and it's still shiny. Of course, being so cool it has to have a downside. Normal casting procedures cause a nasty buildup of crud on the crucible and I had to replace about $40 in equipment. Anybody casting aluminum bronze, DON'T USE BORAX FLUX!!! The metals you see here are : Sterling - slight yellowish Copper - red/red brown Brass - golden/golden brown Aluminum Bronze - Shiny gold German Silver AKA White Metal (Nickle/copper) - silver/grey Lead Free Pewter (mostly tin ) - Looks like aluminum - Bright silvery grey
  2. No. No GPKK goes until I get 8, which I suspect basically means never. http://dropbox.com/sh/tbjipjoj04e04nh/AAAarZIkXLPCRm2bIehl592ha Is most of what I have. Some of those are my favorites. If someone has a GPKK and want's something special we can talk. The Matatu's a favorite, as are the bimetallic kraata. Don't krana look great in copper? That's a SSKK at the top. I made it myself.
  3. Yes. As far as I know, I'm the only person with duplicates. I have Ja, Bo, Ca, Ca, Su, Su. If anyone has Xa, Za, Vu or Yo I'll offer that same deal : 100 TNGM. That's $1000 in eBay dollars if you get $10 each. Of course you have to go to the Post Office 100 times too. Your Xa, Za, Vu or Yo for my 100 TNGM. For the Xa I'll add a metal mask. Your Xa, Za, Vu or Yo for my 50 TNGM and my spare Ca or Su <== You still have a GPKK !! Your Ja, or BO for my 50 TNGM and a metal mask made by me. (think battle damaged) Your Ca or Su for my 50 TNGM OR a metal mask made by me. Not the best, but nice. Notice that the only way to get a GPKK from me is to trade GPKK. Your best bet, if you have a GPKK to sell is to trade it to me then sell the Ca or Su instead. For Magnetic Vorahk, whose thread I've hijacked, I'll sell you a TNGM for $1 plus shipping as an apology.
  4. Legoland sold them by the pound. I called them and they were happy to bag up a few and mail them to me. I think of them as rare for the general public. For regular kids in the neighborhood they're the best. For kids on BZP they're nothing. I used to trade them in mass quantities for what I wanted, leaving it up to the recipient to unload them. Like, I'd trade 100 for a GPKK. Then the recipient would sell them for $5 each and we'd both smile.
  5. You could strip the Aluminum off a VMKK. I made some light grey Haus by treating Chrome Haus with XXXX. The first was too concentrated and made the plastic yellowish but the second worked better. If you want, I have an idea that would use different chemistry. You could practice it on some other, cheaper, LEGO parts to see if it affects the plastic. ?? Didn't think so. Just saying... if someone sells you a discolored one it could be an altered VMKK
  6. Inventory list
  7. good idea! anyway, the deal is not so bad for MISB! it depends, how many bidders want the same thing... also, do you want to resell it, or just for your own collection? Thanks for the input guys, I really want to go for it. And it would be for my personal collection, since I stopped collecting Bionicle around the hordika era. I actually want to buy them new so I can open them is that crazy? i don't think it's crazy, but i don't do it i don't care about boxes, containers, i only need the set complete x) plus, it's already been mentioned, it's pricey (sometimes not that much, sometimes very much)... MISB sets are great for resale, though Well they can't be that great at reselling, I have listed two MISB sets in this forum, and even though they cost 99 cents FOR BOTH OF THEM, no-one wants them! like, what? You're not going to get the best price here. List them on bricklink or ebay, preferably bricklink. yeah actually that's a good idea. I may end the auction early. I think the problem may be the $12 shipping. That makes them $14, not $2. With Bricklink or eBay.UK you'll get a bigger fraction of what the buyer has to pay.
  8. It says he has 100% positive rating. Did you neg him?
  9. If anyone comes back to look at this topic... There are companies that will 3D print things for you. I've seen the work that Shapeways does and it's VERY good. It sounds expensive, but compare it to the time and expense of running your own printer it's not too bad. They charge by the gram so try to keep your design thin. They can even print it in metal! The colored masks I made were dyed. What I did to get the dye to not rub off was to heat the masks to close to their melting point. I did this by adding a LOT of salt to the dye to raise the boiling point. I was surprised to find how many different plastics LEGO uses in their parts. Some completely reject the dye. Some shrink when you heat them. I also think that SteamPunk Akaku is sweet! Nice design and execution..
  10. It's not as easy as just putting it in the dye. Store-bought dye is meant for cloth, not plastic. There are a lot of different dyes and most of them give a grey-ish color nothing like the advertised color. If you want the bright purple ones like I used to make, you have to use the right one, which (as Omega12 says) is no longer made. Also, if you want the dye to go into the plastic and not just rub off you have to heat the masks to near their melting point. Too hot and you ruin a batch of masks. Also, if you want a deep color you have to use concentrated dye. Unless you have a bunch of $ for dye, that means small volumes, and that means it is easy to boil it dry and again you ruin a batch of masks. It's easy to say "I just have to ..." but it just means that you're a talker and not a do-er.
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